Giuseppe Mazzocolin recalls his friendship with Franco Bernabei: the pioneering years of Italian wine, Chianti Classico, technical rigor, and a personal bond that lasted until the very end.
We received the following from Giuseppe Mazzocolin of Fèlsina a request to publish his personal tribute of the winemaker who passed away last July.
At night, one might find oneself gazing at the stars and ask yourself questions about the mystery of life and death. Questions that remain unanswered without any particular sign from above. Yet it is always one’s own heart that serves as the primary guide in the human journey, whether looking back on the defining moments of one’s life or simply listening.
Even when we’re not alone, we always die alone. That’s what I thought about during the long days of Franco Bernabei’s illness, who was lovingly cared for by his loved ones, to his professional life, and to our many shared memories.
A partnership born in the spirit of Veronelli
Our meeting in Milan at the conference on barriques organized by Luigi Veronelli, which marked the beginning of an unexpected and fruitful partnership, the early vintages made exclusively from Sangiovese. The birth of the crus, the joy of beginning to understand them as they evolved, and the trepidation regarding the quality and market reception of a grape variety that was still largely unknown.
>His operational confidence, evident from a young age, was impressive, as well as his ability to convey the analytical and technical parameters necessary for proper winemaking. God only knows how much we needed that!
A clarity of thought that brooked no exceptions, uncompromising yet open to constructive dialogue—with him, it was always fascinating. The end-of-harvest tastings and the follow-up tastings in the months that followed were unforgettable.
The years when Italian wine was changing
His many winemaker friends are faithful witnesses to this, sharing a shared vision that often brought us together at events with the market and the specialized press, and on numerous occasions during long trips abroad. Francesco Giuntini of Selvapiana, a dear friend of great integrity and moral rigor—to mention just a few of those closest to me—and my friend Giovanni Manetti of Fontodi, a true winemaker and wise manager of his own estate, who now serves with equal authority as President of the Chianti Classico Consortium.
What wonderful years the ’80s and ’90s were! Italian wine from “meticulously tended vineyards” was emerging; new appellations were establishing themselves; there was a colorful array of labels and imaginative graphics; the first exciting vertical tastings took place; and the “scores” that back then caused some anxiety but also provided new momentum.
I don’t know where the energy came from, an exuberant force that was also channeled by the families who supported us and rightly urged us to exercise restraint.
We were becoming aware of a language, we were learning about our wines and how to talk about them, seeing how, little by little, a lexicon—a wholly Italian terminology—was taking shape.
A a wine culture that Veronelli had foreshadowed, but we were still too caught up in the moment—there was no time to notice it.
The Harshness of the Land
Franco was always punctual at the wineries and diligent in keeping to the schedule of his sommelier classes. He gave of himself without reserve, generous and kind-hearted, offering hope especially to the younger generation. So that good intentions and technical knowledge might find expressive harmony in the unique terroir of each region. Nature was the decisive factor. It was simply unthinkable that one wine could be exactly like another. From this, it is clear that he was a shrewd and forward-thinking professional, not swayed by the idea of a finished, artfully packaged product.
The Burgundian Tradition in Chianti Classico
Let’s be honest: Franco Bernabei has brought the glorious Burgundian tradition to Chianti Classico, this is the truly groundbreaking aspect of his work! He shared the same rigor. I believe I can call it “Enlightenment-inspired” (in terms of art, reason, and humanity), as his fellow winemakers. We could name them all, one by one, starting with Giacomo Tachis, first among equals.
Those were years of creative ferment throughout Italy; a permanent school was taking shape spontaneously and widely. A sort of ideal gathering that brought together all categories of professionals in the sector, in a marvelous wave sweeping through the underground of the wine world.
Amid that flow of events, of initiatives at wineries and in vineyards, of gatherings, and of the considerable efforts made by the wineries, Franco Bernabei was a leading figure in the history of our country.
The Gift of Friendship
A personal note: His final words, spoken in a voice message, end by letting me know emphatically that “we’ll get through this.” Of course we will! How else could I respond? Waiting breeds hope—who knows, maybe somewhere in the universe we’ll get to eat that famous pizza we promised each other.
After all, as for the stars, astral coincidences would have it that we celebrated our birthdays—and those of our wives, Gloria and Daniela—on their respective birthdays.
So the gift of his friendship was by no means a coincidence. It’s a gift I’ll always carry with me.
I send my warmest hugs to Daniela and her sons, Marco and Matteo.
