An exciting vertical tasting at Castello di Semivicoli confirms the extraordinary aging capacity of the Masciarelli family’s Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva Marina Cvetic. From the history of the wine dedicated to Marina, to the analysis of individual vineyards and the tasting of the 1998, 2000, 2005, 2010, 2014, 2017 and 2018 vintages, here is Riccardo Viscardi‘s account of one of Italy’s greatest whites.
Two beautiful sunny days greeted us on the first weekend of November at the Semivicoli Castle, a charming, warm and welcoming historic home, restored with great sensitivity by the family Masciarelli family.
The dream of Gianni Masciarelli – to whom I owe my first Château Pétrus-he died prematurely in 2008-has been picked up and carried on with dedication by his wife Marina Cvetic, who completed the vision with sensitivity and determination.
The vertical of Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva Marina Cvetic
Among the many labels of the winery, now an absolute reference point of Abruzzo winemaking along with Valentini, we had the privilege of tasting a vertical of the Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva Marina Cvetic.
A wine that Gianni dedicated to Marina in the early 1990s and that represents one of the highest expressions of Abruzzo Trebbiano.
Origins and vineyards
The Trebbiano Riserva was born in 1991 from a careful selection of three vineyards located in the Teatino area, with plants from 20 to 50 years old.
- S. Martino sulla Marrucina
- Bucchianico
- Ripa Teatina
The vineyards have different elevations, from 150 to 400 meters above sea level ., with soils predominantly clay-limestone.
Training systems vary from the counter-espalier to the traditional Abruzzi pergola.
A great grape variety for aging
The vertical was exciting and confirmed how the Trebbiano abruzzese can be a great grape variety for long aging.
The wines showed no letup, especially on the palate, always savory, taut and vibrant.
The vintages featured in the tasting were:
1998, 2000, 2001, 2005, 2010, 2014, 2017 e 2018.
Whose tasting notes we publish below.
A reflection on bottle closure
In older vintages, the only factors that undermined the integrity of the wine were some underperforming corks, sometimes due to the presence of bottle necks with irregular internal surfaces.
It is sad to see how the meticulous work of the producer can be compromised by external technical aspects, despite the constant search for high-quality materials.
Refinement and production technique
For fans of production processes, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva Marina Cvetic provides:
- 100% Trebbiano abruzzese
- Very low yield per hectare, manual harvesting and low-temperature maceration
- 12 months of maturation in barrels
- Further aging of 12 months in bottle before release on the market
A pathway that contributes to its structure, aromatic depth and evolutionary capacity.
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva Marina Cvetic 1998
Score: 96/100
No longer on the market
27 years wonderfully borne from the golden color and still bright. Crisp and complex intense nose with touches of gooseberry, refined hydrocarbons and nutmeg and other spices. Very savory, juicy and soaring texture with an intense, soft and snappy finish. Very long.
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva Marina Cvetic 2000
Score: 95/100
No longer on the market
Another surprise for a hot vintage that did not promise much and instead turns out to be surprising thanks to Trebbiano’s ability to withstand the summer heat.
Deep golden in color. Nose with intense tangerine and kumquat, jujubes. Firm, flowing, savory texture. The finish shows no sags but austere elegance.
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva Marina Cvetic 2005
Score: 97/100
No longer on the market
Perhaps the best of all. Bright yellow. Intense and varied nose, including tangerine, gooseberry, mallow and a floral touch of violets. Intense yet very agile texture, savory with a zesty, snappy progression. The finish is compelling, elegant and very persistent with hints of lavender.
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva Marina Cvetic 2010
Score: 90/100
No longer on the market
A small disappointment given the internal competition. Honey color. Very ripe yellow fruit, woody notes and anise are the olfactory characteristics. The texture is intense and enveloping but not very mobile and sinewy; there is a tinge of caramel. The finish is sunny, juicy almost massive.
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva Marina Cvetic 2014
Score: 96/100
Approximate price: € 50
An often underrated vintage but one that on whites never ceases to amaze. Intense, bright straw yellow. Sharp nose between lavender, gooseberry, light floral and fresh yellow fruit. Intense and nervous texture with great sapidity and an unexpected freshness that gives agility to the progression and sharpens the finish of great class and persistence. Very tasty aftertaste.
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva Marina Cvetic 2017
Score: 92/100
Average price in wine shop: € 40
Vintage known for its dry summer. The color is full golden. On the nose, intense, aromas of chamomile, black tea, rennet apple. In the mouth it is round, enveloping, with a classic saline component that lengthens the sip and a finish that brings the memory to the taste of Rossana candy, a childhood memory.
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva Marina Cvetic 2018
Score: 93/100
Average price in wine shop: € 40
The young man in the tasting. Firm yellow. Olfactory impact of saffron, gooseberry, yellow floral, broom, slightly smoky. Intense, relaxed texture with good freshness and a finish where peach and yellow flower return. Youthful and composed, with excellent persistence.
