Yeast, sulfites, wines that all taste the same: on social media, the debate about wine is often fueled by unshakable convictions and limited knowledge. Daniele Cernilli reviews some of the most common misconceptions, distinguishes the role of oenology from accusations of standardization, and reminds us that respecting personal tastes doesn’t mean sacrificing expertise.
Those of you who are active on social media may have noticed that there are increasingly frequent off-the-cuff comments about wine. Often, these are so-called trolls who just want to have fun stirring up trouble. Sometimes, however, they are people who defend preconceived ideas with great conviction. The topics range from the use of yeasts and sulfites to the alleged standardization of wines. Then there are the exorbitant prices, alcohol being incredibly harmful, DOC designations being a farce, and so on.
Yeast: Between Nature and Selection
Now, I challenge anyone to find a wine that doesn’t use yeast and that doesn’t contain sulfites. Simply because without yeast—Saccharomyces, to be precise—the must could not ferment. Sulfites are, in part, natural byproducts of fermentation itself and are present in all wines, whether you like it or not. What varies are the amounts of sulfites and the choice between relying on naturally occurring yeasts or using selected—that is, cultured—yeasts. The distinction, however, is not between natural and “artificial” yeasts—the latter being a misnomer: even selected yeasts can come from grapes, musts, and wines. They are almost all Saccharomyces cerevisiae, what makes the difference are the characteristics of the strains and how the fermentation processes are managed
Sulfites: Why They’re Used and How Much Is Needed
The Sulfites Chapter, sulfur dioxide in particular. It is normally produced during winemaking, and as long as the concentration is 10 mg per liter or less, the label does not need to include the statement “contains sulfites.” In recent years, the very winemaking practices that some have criticized—allegedly for standardizing flavors and aromas—have made it possible to reduce the amounts added. Sulfur dioxide contributes to the stability of the wine, preventing secondary fermentation and the formation of biogenic amines (putrescine, cadaverine, histamine)—substances that, judging by their names alone, do not seem particularly beneficial.
Oxidation
Furthermore, it counteracts oxidation and the growth of undesirable microorganisms, volatile acidity, and acetic off-flavors. However, in wines with high polyphenol content—especially reds, but also macerated whites—the amount of sulfur dioxide added can be very minimal, well below the legally permitted limits. In sparkling wines, carbon dioxide also helps limit contact with oxygen.
Certified wines or recognizable defects?
Chapter Approval. It is obvious that modern winemaking practices—such as the use of cold temperatures and cellar hygiene—prevent those defects that used to make wines different from one another. However, anyone who cannot distinguish a Barolo from a Chianti Classico cannot attribute this to standardization rather than to their own lack of expertise. That said, you don’t need to be a wine connoisseur to appreciate a well-made wine with pleasant organoleptic characteristics.
And if we consider these aspects to be standardizing, what about the acetic and volatile notes—unpleasant odors caused by substances that may be entirely natural but are by no means appetizing? They, too, are characteristic, incidentally.
Personal taste does not justify preconceptions
Then personal tastes must be respected—of course they should. I’m crazy about blue cheeses, especially Gorgonzola, which most people from the East find disgusting. In Sapporo, Japan, I was offered fermented crab innards as a unique delicacy, and I pretended to have a cold so I wouldn’t have to eat them, saying that I wasn’t able to appreciate them—thus avoiding offending my hosts.
However, it is not reasonable to be held captive by stereotypes fueled by so many preconceptions and just as many clichés.
