Fabrizio Carrera, editor of Cronache di Gusto, interviews Ettore Germano, president of the Consorzio Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani: “Barolo and Barbaresco are liked because they are unique. And on relief irrigation yes, but…”
Relief irrigation? Why not. But caution is needed and a feasibility study is needed. The secret of Barolo and Barbaresco’s success? Their uniqueness. The landing of investors in the Langhe who want to become winemakers? There is no alternative but they must be welcomed. In these few lines, the philosophy and thinking of Sergio Germano, for the past year president of the Consorzio Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani, who talks about his tenure and the most current dossiers. Germano describes himself as passionate about the vineyard, wine, and territory. A bit shy, but he overcomes his shyness with a desire to share ideas and opinions.
One year after taking office, can we make an initial assessment?
“We will take stock at the end. My philosophy is to always be a team player because you have to work for the territory. I believe in consortia, in producer associations working as a team all in the same direction. And that is the commitment I am putting into this work.”
How are you doing at the consortium level?
“There is a nice harmony with good representation of the types of companies we have. I am not one for easy enthusiasms, I move carefully because I don’t want to make mistakes.”
Since the last consultation with members, there remains a ban on planting Nebbiolo vineyards suitable for Barolo or Barbaresco on north-facing hillsides. Is this a closed issue?

“It is.There was a consultation through signature collection required by the specifications. There was a question that started in February and closed in mid-June, and among them passed the bottling area limit for Barolo and Barbaresco which will have to coincide with the winemaking area and the use of sizes larger than 6 liters and up to 18 liters for Barbaresco for sale. On the issue of enlarging the production area to the north, perhaps the time was not ripe or perhaps the proposal was not interpreted correctly.”
With climate change, however, perhaps something will have to be changed?
“The experience and professionalism of winemakers is important. Nature has its variations; we have to be resilient to manage it. Reasoning and thinking about relief irrigation will certainly have to be done.”
Is it not possible to do it today?
“Right now it is not provided for by specification but most importantly there is a lack of water. We should think about the creation of invaders, but we need planning that goes beyond the consortium. The climate trend is changing and we need to adapt and look ahead.”
In what ways do you see changes on climate?
“The evidence is the lack of winters, precipitation is distributed differently with violent events such as rain, hail, and a distuctive wind speed. Today the hail season runs from spring to fall. There are so many means to try, and everyone has to figure out which one is best suited to their needs.”
Will irrigation then be one of the issues to be addressed?
“First we need a feasibility study. It is a discourse to be pursued, like the one on physiopathologies, diseases to be fought. On the one hand we want to be more environmentally friendly on the other hand by law we are obliged to use certain products.”
How do you defend the territory from labor exploitation, the so-called caporalato?
“The episodes should serve as a lesson. We have started to sign a memorandum of understanding to raise awareness in the area to prevent exploitation. It is not so much the wineries that exploit, but the companies that manage seasonal workers. We are a rich and potentially high level area, we have to be high in all areas. The work ethic must be maintained, if we produce wealth we must also give it.”
What is the secret of Barolo’s success?
“Uniqueness. Barolo, but also Barbaresco, are the offspring of very aristocratic and sensitive grape varieties that vary a lot by moving them from one environment to another, becoming generous in different realities. The uniqueness makes them produce unique and precious wines.”
How do you manage a consortium with so many souls where there are wines that stand out in the world precisely because of this uniqueness?
“My dream is to give a voice to everyone to filter, interact and be able to agree on the various sentiments. The idea is to move as a bloc each with their own label and company to make the wine we produce great.”
How would you welcome any investors coming to the area who are not wine producers?
“We have no alternative but to welcome them well by trying to put them together with us to work always in the same style by giving their best. The important thing is to make them realize that this is an area with incredible value.”
Barolo is one of the most valuable areas in terms of land value…
“Right now, yes, from the point of view of finance. The important thing is that it does not become speculation and that we do not go to depersonalize the land. Those who trample on this land must do so to make it shine well.”
Do younger generations try their hand at this craft?
“There are many grandchildren of people who had land years ago trying their hand at it. Working the vineyard is a non-technological craft. Here there is a work of knowledge, of history, of hands, of experience lived on the skin. A long job to learn, it takes at least ten years. Young people must not lose enthusiasm. Getting to the bottle takes commitment.”
Are you concerned about the worldwide trend of drinking white?
“Tastes change, traditions are important to maintain. Personal taste cannot be imposed. We have an area called the Langhe: in the upper Langa on the cooler hills you can grow whites. It can be an addition. The territory must be exploited so the concern should not be there.”