There is no discussion of the quality of the wines and types established over time, but rather of the ability of the production fabric to tell the story. Under scrutiny are marketing aspects, necessary to make the key points of Dogliani clearer and more immediate.
Events such as Terroir Dogliani, staged on June 8 and 9 at the Fauzone Palace of Mondovi, would deserve even more attention and participation, if we take into consideration the themes and, above all, the values introduced during the two days, characterized by thematic tastings and masterclasses that involved industry insiders, producers and enthusiasts.
At the center of it all is the iconic as much as historic wine of Piedmont, of the Langhe: the Dogliani, produced from Dolcetto grapes.
The communication of the territory and wine
One of the most heartfelt themes for the denomination, and developed on this occasion, is that of the communication of a territory and a wine that appears simple, but in reality turns out to be complex. A lengthy debate brought out critical issues, but it also tabled some ideas. Not solutions, but starting points for the close-knit group of producers who, in 1984, founded the Bottega del Vino, a consortium among producers of the Dogliani Docg appellation.
It is in this place of comparison and promotion of the territory that, for example, the idea of a single DOCG for the “Dogliani” and “Dogliani Superiore” types was born.
“We are solid companies, with a historicity and a wine that until not so long ago was considered the Langhe Nebbiolo of today,”, Orlando Pecchenino, owner of the eponymous winery, said from the audience.
A well-founded statement, but in the debate there is no discussion of the quality of wines and types established over time, but rather the ability to tell the story of them by the production fabric, 67 percent of which consists of companies (58 out of 86) that produce about 10,000 bottles, but contribute only 10 percent of total production. This results in a Fragmented definition of territory, which makes it difficult to tell a unified identity. Under scrutiny, then, were the marketing aspects, necessary to make the key points of Dogliani clearer and more immediate, which we felt we could “organize” in brief.
The two versions of Dogliani wine
There are about two million bottles produced annually on an area of 667 hectares, and two versions of the wine: the Dogliani, sic et simpliciter, fresh and fruity, everyday and very pleasant, especially with Piedmontese appetizers; and, more structured, the Dogliani Superiore, also capable of defying time in the bottle. After an initial zoning by the Bottega in collaboration with Alessandro Masnaghetti, in 2017 the Consorzio di tutela Barolo, Barbaresco, Alba, Langhe and Dogliani, together with the 21 municipalities involved in the Dogliani Docg appellation, produced a mapping of Additional Geographical Mentions.
This, unfortunately, has not yet been published.
They then remain active in the sub-areas, which, in summary, were presented on this occasion and which return the following sensory profiles to the wines:
- Saint Lucia: elegant wines, rich in aroma and matter;
- St. Louis: wines of finesse and longevity;
- Valdibà: colorful, full-bodied wines;
- Pianezzo: wines of freshness and tannicity;
- Our Lady of Grace: firm, tannic and persistent wines;
- Taricchi: harmonious and expressive wines.
A personal profiling, useful for framing the types of wines produced, but which does not take into account production styles.
Other ideas then emerged from the discussion: from the involvement of young people, to co-branding activities with other fairs and events, to a more compact storytelling, in this re-branding phase, to simplify the strengths of Dogliani. A wine that, in light of its host landscape, should focus in its storytelling on high land, freshness and a low production volume, which confirms its craft identity. No final solutions have been found, but a yard of ideas has been opened, aiming to give greater visibility and recognition to a wine that deserves more attention.
