TastingsTerritories and wines

Montrachet, the ultimate legend of Chardonnay

Montrachet Chardonnay panorama

Just eight hectares, divided between Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet, that give rise to one of the world’s most celebrated wines. A journey through ten interpretations of a legendary Grand Cru. For us, Vinogodi.

The Vineyard of Perfection

Montrachet is a vineyard covering just eight hectares planted exclusively with Chardonnay. The south-to-southeast exposure, the gentle slope, the limestone-rich subsoil, and the perfect drainage have created the ideal conditions for the emergence of what many consider the greatest white wine in the world, with very few exceptions.

Land fragmentation is extreme: Some winegrowers own only a few rows of vines and produce minimal quantities—sometimes almost symbolic amounts. In particularly difficult vintages, it has even happened that several winegrowers have pooled their grapes to fill a single pièce—the traditional 228-liter Burgundian barrel.

The earliest historical records of the vineyard date back to the 13th century and are linked to the Cistercian monks. The name Montrachet is said to derive from “Mont Chauve,” meaning “bald mountain,” referring to a barren, vegetation-free place.

Puligny and Chassagne: Two Sides of the Same Legend

The municipal boundary divides the Grand Cru exactly in half. Traditionally, wines from the Puligny-Montrachet side are labeled “Montrachet,” while those from the Chassagne-Montrachet side bear the designation “Le Montrachet.”

Rather than for any single dominant characteristic, Montrachet stands out for its ability to simultaneously combine power, depth, elegance, balance, and complexity. It is precisely this near-perfect balance that makes it an absolute benchmark for all lovers of great white wines.

I won’t go into detail about prices: some are still “affordable,” others are out of reach. To enjoy them, you have to make an effort to buy them when prices aren’t inflated and join forces with fellow enthusiasts. Some bottles are still relatively affordable, while others have now reached prices typically reserved for collectors.

Ten Great Montrachets for Tasting

2017 Montrachet Grand Cru, Louis Latour

DoctorWine SealScore: 96/100
Average price: €700

The Latours have been involved in winemaking for 11 generations. Great merchant and also breeder, they own vineyards throughout Burgundy. This Montrachet is an elegant and refined interpretation of the Grand Cru.

Light golden-yellow color. Intoxicating aromas of wildflowers, bread crust, and toasted peanuts. On the palate, it is fresh, refined, and remarkably smooth, with impeccable balance and a long finish. Impressive drinkability for a Montrachet that’s still “affordable.”

Montrachet Grand Cru 2015 Lucien Le Moine

DoctorWine SealScore: 96/100
Average price: €1,000

The company’s name comes from the nickname the owner’s friends gave him after his time at the Cistercian monastery: “Le Moine” (the monk). Lucien, on the other hand, was the name the monks had given him.

Intense golden yellow. On the nose, it offers a varied array of ripe yellow fruit, spices, and cedar zest. On the palate, it is full-bodied, structured, and deep, with a rich texture supported by remarkable precision on the palate.

Montrachet Grand Cru 2015 Jacques Prieur

DoctorWine SealScore: 96/100
Average price: € 900

The manufacturer is known for its “substantial” style. It doesn’t disappoint with this powerful and generous version.

A deep golden color. Intense exotic aromas, such as mango and passion fruit, as well as melon and yellow peach, with hints of medicinal herbs. The palate is smooth, enveloping, and opulent, supported by great body.

Montrachet Grand Cru 2012, Etienne Sauzet

DoctorWine SealScore: 97/100
Average price: € 1.100

Made from vines over 65 years old, it embodies the quintessential elegance of Montrachet—a style that has always been the hallmark of this producer.

Pale gold with greenish highlights. A refined and explosive bouquet of flowers, dried herbs, minerality, and wet earth. On the palate, it is a sensual caress—elegant, harmonious, and incredibly long—one of the most refined expressions of the appellation.

The 2005 Montrachet Grand Cru from Fontaine-Gagnard

DoctorWine SealScore: 96/100
Average price: € 1.000

Another Montrachet dedicated to the finesse and balance of its components. A Montrachet must always strive for perfection in its sensory components, not for a quantitative imbalance in any one of them.

Still bright and surprisingly youthful in color. Delicate and complex aromas of wisteria, lavender, and subtle earthy notes. Balanced and well-structured on the palate, with a complex texture and a pleasant balsamic finish.

Montrachet Grand Cru 2007, Domaine Ramonet

DoctorWine SealDoctorWine SealScore: 98/100
Average price: €3,800

An intense yellow with great clarity and brilliance. Extraordinary aromatic complexity—typical of this producer—featuring floral notes, pink grapefruit zest, a refined spiciness of cinnamon and white pepper, and intense balsamic notes. On the palate, it combines energy, tension, and depth while maintaining exemplary elegance.

Montrachet Grand Cru 2005 Comtes Lafon

DoctorWine SealDoctorWine SealDoctorWine SealScore: 99/100
Average price: €3,500

Comte Lafon’s Montrachet is one of the absolute benchmarks (along with that of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti) for lovers of great, full-bodied white wines. It is made from grapes harvested at the very latest possible time to ensure full ripeness.

An intense gold color that already hints at an unusual sensory density. The aromas evoke the Orient with notes of exotic yellow fruit jellies, papaya, ripe yellow plum, and melon. Spicy note is sensational, appearing immediately in the background before taking center stage. The palate is full-bodied, rich, and powerful—a rarity for a white wine—with extractive intensity yet perfectly balanced by refreshing acidity.

1997 Montrachet Grand Cru, Domaine Ramonet

DoctorWine SealScore: 96/100 By now, this is a legendary—rather than merely mythological—wine from an inspired vintage with truly impressive characteristics. 0
Average price: €3,500

When the evolution of time is elegantly expressed.

An intense, unyielding golden color. The nose has now developed tertiary aromas of smokiness, chanterelle mushrooms, and oriental spices. The orange marmalade note makes it even more captivating. On the palate, it is now a celebration of smoothness and a well-developed, serene structure.

Montrachet Grand Cru 2001, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti

DoctorWine SealDoctorWine SealDoctorWine SealScore: 99/100
Average price: €10,000

A wine that is now more legendary than mythological, from an exceptional vintage with truly impressive characteristics.

An intense, brilliant golden color, almost heralding a monumental sensory experience. The bouquet is intense and concentrated, with balsamic and fruity aromas taking center stage, followed by acacia honey, bread crust, yeast, and light, alluring hints of botrytis. On the palate, it is monumental in its breadth and enveloping character, yet never loses its balance.

Montrachet Grand Cru 2004, Domaine Leflaive

DoctorWine SealDoctorWine SealDoctorWine SealScore: 100/100
Average price: €15,000

In my personal opinion, Madame Leflaive’s masterpiece is the greatest white wine in the world. It is not produced every year due to its extremely limited production. Regardless of its high price, it is one of the rarest wines on the planet: only a few bottles are imported into Italy. It is said that, in some vintages, the barrel is custom-made (the Domaine has its own cooperage) because the volume falls short of the standard 228-liter barrel…

A brilliant, luminous golden yellow with extraordinary color depth. The bouquet is kaleidoscopic, featuring balsamic, mineral, fruity, and spicy notes. On the palate, it displays extraordinary complexity and depth, making it one of the rarest and most sought-after wines in the entire global wine scene.

RELATED ARTICLES

What you think about this post?