From the typical Kimmeridgian soils of Chablis come pure, taut, saline wines. Vinogodi presents us with six unique interpretations of Chardonnay, between freshness, complexity and mineral memory. The elegance of stone and time.
Drinking a Chablis is like sipping a breath of wine: an expressive breath of a land that was once submerged in the ocean. The subsoil of the growing areas is extremely varied and characterized by Kimmeridgian geological structures that shape hills and slopes.
Kimmeridgian soil is a limestone-marly soil rich in marine fossils, formed in the Upper Jurassic, about 145 million years ago. It is known for its fertility, high pH and excellent drainage-features that make it ideal for viticulture.
Thanks to the cool climate, Chablis wines are distinguished by a higher acidity and lower fruit expression than Chardonnays from warmer climates, just as they differ from the same wines from the Côte de Beaune. They are often accompanied by flint notes o goût de pierre à fusil – the famous “flint flavor,” much discussed by etymological purists who consider “mineral hints” a mere narrative invention.
Traditionally aged in steel, in recent decades some major producers have introduced the use of barriques/pieces, “borgognizing” the wines and giving them greater complexity and roundness.
Premier Cru
Returning to our wines: the locution “Premier Cru” indicates high-quality wines produced in specific areas. This classification, used mainly in Burgundy and Champagne, refers to the vineyards placed at the second hierarchical level, just below the Grand Cru.
The origin of this system dates back to 1395, when Philip the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, established criteria and privileges for the region’s winemakers.
As anticipated, in the Chablisienne there are 40 Premier Cru, spread over the two banks of the Serein River. While on average the wines in this category offer excellent quality, only a few reach truly extraordinary levels, such that they are hailed by critics and … the market.
Premier crus are allowed to indicate on the label the Climat to which it belongs, which is the distinctive element of the wine-along with the producer and, of course, the vintage.
And we come to the tastings, in order of vintage.
Chablis Premier Cru Beauroy 2021 Didier Dauvissat
Score: 91/100
Average price in wine shop: €40
100% Chardonnay. 6-12 months in cement/steel. Light, bright straw yellow. The nose is refined elderflower, lime, lime, with light spicy notes. The palate is taut, very fresh and drinkable, with slight citrus return.
Chablis Premier Cru Vosgros 2020 Benoit Droin
Score: 92/100
Average price in wine shop: € 60
100% Chardonnay. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, aging 8-10 months. Deep straw yellow with golden notes. It has intense and varied aromas of white fruit and wild flowers, with notes of gooseberry and citrus. The mouth has good breadth, maintaining great elegance and freshness.
Chablis Clos Béru Monopole 2018 Château de Béru
Score: 95/100
Average price in wine shop: € 120
100% Chardonnay. Single parcel Clos Béru of 3.5 ha. 24 months in tonneaux. Light gold color, very bright. Has intense aromas of orange blossom, silicates, flint with delicious spicy garnish. Mouth of great energy, enveloping, remarkable structure and length.
Chablis Premier Cru Mont de Milieu 2017 Denis Race
Score: 92/100
Average price in wine shop: € 50
100% Chardonnay from vineyards on the right bank of the Serein. Steel on fine lees for 12 months (or more). Unfazed golden yellow color showing its maturity. Delicate aromas of white peach, lime blossom, jasmine, almond blossom. The mouth has beautiful breadth and softness, supported by still-impelling acidity.
Chablis Premier Cru Vosgros 2016 Domaine du Chardonnay
Score: 91/100
Average price in wine shop: € 40
100 % Chardonnay. Cru in the Chichée area, on the left bank of the Serein River. Thermocontrolled tanks on fine lees for 15-18 months. Light golden color. Variegated olfactory phase, denoting an initial tertiarization: white melon, hay, macerated flowers, Acacia honey. In the mouth it reserves structure and complexity, beautiful glyceric phase with softnesses in fine evidence and freshness supporting the whole.
Chablis Premier Cru La Forest 2015 Vincent Dauvissat
Score: 95/100
Average price in wine shop: € 180
100% Chardonnay, vineyards in the Climat La Forest. Traditional vinification. Golden yellow, extremely bright. From the range of aromas, notes of wildflower mowing, white fruit pulp, golden apple, fine spices stand out. In the mouth it gives mouth-watering and rich sensations, slightly honeyed, with round development supported by excellent acidity. Remarkable length.
Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre 2005 Domaine François Ravenau
Score: 97/100
Average price in wine shop: € 500
For many a historic misclassification because it is considered, in quality and refinement, the eighth Grand Cru of Chablis. Produced by the area’s most iconic and famous producer, exceptional vintage.
100% Chardonnay. Aging on fine lees. Intense, striking golden yellow color. Aromas intact despite 20 years of age, transfigured into flesh of nocine peach, white melon, almond blossom, wildflower honey. The iodine notes are evident. The mouthfeel is savory, with great structure and effervescent acidity. The length is endless as is the caress on the palate.
PS: Very hard to find and not exactly popular in price, but definitely worth it.
