Let’s get into the meat of Vinogodi’s stories with an initial focus on Chablis to bring us closer to the appellation. We are still in areas where it is possible to approach a bottle without fear of not being able to pay for it.
It is named after the town of the same name in the Yonne department, whose capital is Auxerre, extreme offshoot of Burgundy, bordering the Ile de France and the Paris region. Thus, geologically and geographically, while being considered Burgundy for all intents and purposes it is geographically and geologically very close to the southern part of Champagne, L’Aube. Amusing anecdote and parochialism characterizes the vignerons of the Champagne capital with those of the Chablisienne: for the former, Chablis is nothing more than “a Champagne without bubbles”, while for the latter, the celebrated sparkling wine is nothing more than “a Chablis with bubbles”.
In fact, the characteristics of Chablis, in general and with the related amplifications related to the various classifications, are reminiscent in some features precisely of the Chardonnays of the Côte de Blanc, with great sapidity, citrus, floral and a (forgive me purists) perhaps unique mineral note: chalk, flint, iodine.
The classification of Chablis
The classification of Chablis vineyards is relatively simple and in order of importance:
- Chablis Grand Cru: 104 hectares divided into 7 Climat (7 Grands Cru: Les Clos, Bougros, Les Preuses, Vaudésir, Blanchot, Grenouille, Valmur)
- Chablis Premiers Cru: 767 hectares divided into 40 Cru
- Chablis AOC: 3,156 hectares
- Petit Chablis: 730 hectares
Reiterating the concept already expressed, the ability of the individual vigneron many times overrides the relative classification complicating the choice of type not a little.
With some exceptions, it should be kept in mind that in Chablis, despite its almost thousand-year history, speculation, with some exceptions that we will go on to analyze, has not yet taken over the area, managing to express exceptional average quality/price ratios in wine shops.
Another very relevant feature, thanks to the structural characteristics of Chablis wines, their incredible longevity, which makes them appreciable both when very young and at a very late and unexpected age.
The relativity of my judgments
I would like to premise a strictly personal concept related to the judgments: in addition to the subjectivity that characterizes them, an almost absolute belief: the axiom concerning the “relativity” of judgment itself. Those that follow are. judgments “related” to the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs of Burgundy., expressed in cents as is customary for DoctorWine. Without in any way detracting from the skill of the producers of these grape varieties in the remaining part of the planet, here everything is amplified, quality-wise, so it would be improper to put them on a scale that makes sense only for this area, especially in the highest expressions. The risk would be the extension of the various scales of judgment that, in some cases, would be … out of scale with respect to counterparts in any other area where they are grown.
Below are a few samples:
Petit Chablis 2020 Domaine de Chardonnay
Score: 89/100
Average price in wine shop: € 20
100% Chardonnay. Steel on fine lees for 6 to 10 months. Light straw yellow color with green highlights. It has pleasant, nuanced aromas of wild flowers, coquillage and williams pear. The delicacy of the aromas is matched by a very fresh, lively, fine, graceful mouthfeel that induces sipping.
Chablis 2018 Denis Race
Score: 90/100
Average price in wine shop: € 30
100% Chardonnay. Stainless steel. Light gold color, with light golden reflections given by proper maturation. The aromas are intense white fruit, wisteria, slightly citrusy, with net iodine sensations. The mouth has buna structure, but gentle traits prevail, soft and never aggressive nuances, conceptual minerality, as well as classic sapidity. Medium length.
Chablis Côtes Aux Pretres 2019 Château de Beru
Score: 93/100
Average price in wine shop: € 65
A great up-and-comer in the area, we will hear about him in the future.
100% Chardonnay. Stainless steel. Pale golden yellow, with still greenish nuances. Fragrant notes of ripe white fruit, with a kaleidoscope of wildflowers on the side and delicious lime. The mouth is broad while keeping the rudder of freshness firmly held, with a very long and satisfying finish.
Chablis 2015 Vincent Dauvissat
Score: 95/100
Average price in wine shop: € 110
It could not miss one of the absolute stars of the area, a true Chablis artist, the great Vincent Dauvissat at the height of his maturity.
100% Chardonnay. Steel and small part in used oak barrels. After ten years it is a bright golden yellow. The nose has slightly spicy notes of citrus, broken shells and eucalyptus flowers. The mouth has remarkable structure in its elegance; slightly glyceric, it rounds out a rich and satisfying drink.
