Chablis Les Clos: the Grand Cru symbol of elegance and longevity

The name Chablis comes from a Celtic expression, cab + leya, “houses near the forest.” Those who have been there understand why: the reference to the local landscape is obvious. Small villages nestled among vineyards and patches of forest. In this scenery takes shape Les Clos, the largest and most prestigious Grand Cru in Chablis, universally recognized as its most complete and emblematic expression.

Historical origins and role of the Cistercians

The history of Les Clos, like the Chablisien region in general, goes back to the Middle Ages. It was in fact the Cistercian monks, as early as the 9th century, to identify and classify the best vineyards in the region and to “found” the clos. The term Clos originally denoted a walled vineyard; over time, the wall fences have partly disappeared, but the name has retained its symbolic and iconic value, extending to other areas of the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits.

Terroir: why Les Clos is unique

Cru’s success comes from an ideal combination of natural elements:

• Different soils along the slope: limestone and stones toward the top, clay at the bottom.
• South-southwest exposure., perfect for gradual ripening in a cool climate in summer and bitter cold in winter.
• Kimmeridgian origin., (which we have already discussed) rich in marine fossils, which gives the wines a distinctive mineral imprint.

Thanks to this combination of factors, the wines derived from the Cru have exceptional longevity: while retaining typical finesse and elegance, they display a substance and structure that brings them closer to the wines of the Côte de Beaune. It is no coincidence that Les Clos has become a reference, almost a cult object, for enthusiasts from all over the world, and , as a result, market prices are on average higher than for the other Grand Crus of Chablis.

Some will ask: what is the ideal window to drink a Les Clos? Taking into account the variables given by the vintage, the exposure of the vineyards, the skill of the producer: I would say, roughly … from drawing from the barrel up to 50 years of age, if well preserved…

When to drink a Les Clos?

Some will ask: what is the ideal window to drink a Les Clos? Taking into account the variables given by the vintage, the exposure of the vineyards, the skill of the producer: I would say, roughly… From drawing from the cask to 50 years of age, if well preserved…

In conclusion

Les Clos represents the pinnacle of Chablis production: a masterful balance between finesse, minerality, energy and longevity.

From young versions to more mature bottles, each producer tells a different face of this legendary terroir. A Grand Cru that never ceases to fascinate and that, in the right hands, reaches levels of absolute greatness.

Tastings of iconic vintages

Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2018 François de Nicolay

Score: 93/100
Approximate price: € 90

100% Chardonnay. Long maturation in wood.
Deep straw color, with green highlights. Expression on the nose is particularly rich, with pleasant notes of honey, stone fruit and citrus. The palate, dense and deep, reflects the complexity of limestone and siliceous soils, with a clear mineral imprint. Incisive freshness and good mouthfeel.

Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2016 Christian Moreau

Score: 94/100
Approximate price: € 120

100% Chardonnay. 50% in stainless steel, 50% in barrique (2-4 years; less than 5% in new wood), 8 months on fine lees in stainless steel.
Light golden yellow, with beautiful luminosity. The nose presents a range of fruity scents, from citrus to white and yellow peaches, followed by sensations of tropical fruits, with mineral and stony nuances. In the mouth it is very broad and expressive, with fair density and good depth. Interesting siliceous note on the close.

Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2010 Gérard Duplessis

Score: 95/100
Approximate price: € 120

100% Chardonnay. Maniacal “natural” producer, with spontaneous fermentations including malolactic.
The color is golden without sagging with age. The aromas have softened, with fruity tones there is a slight sensation of botrytis, without losing, however, the mineral trait. In the mouth it has breadth and structure, With exotic returns and prevailing softness.

Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2010 Jean–Paul & Benoît Droin

Score: 96/100
Approximate price: € 160

100% Chardonnay. Part in stainless steel, part in wood; malolactic, blending after 8-10 months.
Golden yellow without subsidence. It has decidedly varied and dynamic aromas, with clear notes of dried fruit, light spices, citrus, white pepper. In the mouth it has decision, texture, remarkable impact for notes of silicates and wet rock that reinforce the acid note still alive after 15 years.

Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2007 Tremblay Marchive

Score: 94/100
Approximate price: € 100

100% Chardonnay. Vinification in barrique and aging in steel for about one year.
Deep golden. Notes of yellow peach and melon are accompanied by alpine butter and medicinal herbs, with an interesting final scent of pine needles. The mouth is caressed by an unchanged freshness combined with a marked glyceric structure, at the height of its maturity.

Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2005 William Fèvre

Score: 96/100
Approximate price: € 160

100% Chardonnay. 65% in stainless tanks and 35% in barrique (3-5 year old barrels); aged on fine lees for 15-18 months.
To the eye, it surprises with its deep golden yellow color without sagging, however, thus maintaining great transparency. The aromas are enveloping of tropical sensations, ginger, mango, banana, with a nuance of acacia honey. The reference is also clear to the Meursault area in terms of structure: broad, round, powerful: while maintaining great elegance and balance.

Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2002 Billaud Simon

Score: 96/100
Approximate price: € 350

100% Chardonnay. Refinement sur lies, with minimal share in used oak.
Incredible pale golden yellow color with still some greenish reflections. The aromas are loaded with flowers and great minerality, iodized salt, wet flint and coquillage. The palate has great acid tension, savory, with backbone despite great finesse. Excellent length and a final sensation of refined florality.

Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2002 Vincent Dauvissat

Score: 97/100
Approximate price: € 500

100% Chardonnay.
Relatively clear golden yellow. Decisive and complex, articulate aromas. A combination of fruit, coquillage, flint, spice and a delicate woodiness. The mouthfeel is very broad, firmly structured while maintaining slenderness of sip for still lively acidity. Very long ending.
Impressive longevity and integrity, thanks to an inspired hand (Vincent Dauvissat is considered the greatest producer of Chablis along with Ravenau) and a historic vintage.

Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2007 François Raveneau

Score: 98/100
Approximate price: € 1.300

100% Chardonnay. Fermentation in steel and aging in old wooden barrels for 12-18 months.
Impressive is the golden yellow color of great intensity but with still green reflections, as if time had stopped. On the nose expresses itself with exuberance, intensity and articulation, revealing a dynamic and ever-evolving olfactory framework, rich, played between shells and broom, anise and mint, citrus and ginger, with an unusual and exciting note of turpentine that borders on camphor, accentuating its balsamic traits. The mouth shows an enveloping entry of remarkable density, punctuated by an acid-savory structure that creates a stimulating rhythm.

PS: The bottle is apparently expensive, but after the 100/100 Parker for the 2005 vintage, Raveneau has become a real cult object. However, I think a small sacrifice is necessary to understand the greatness to which a Chablis can strive….