Torre Rosazza and the Pursuit of (Absolute) Quality

Within the Tenute del Leone Alato estate, Torre Rosazza stands out in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. I took part in a very interesting vertical tasting dedicated to its flagship DOC, that of the Colli Orientali del Friuli. A name that is both evocative and meaningful, both for the types of wines the winery produces and for the philosophy behind them. Described by winemaker Casati as a a gem of the wine world, Torre Rosazza is located in the hills, with vineyards nestled between the Julian Pre-Alps and the Adriatic breezes. The soils are among the most representative, consisting of clay, Ponca, and stratified layers.

The climate here is distinctly continental; summers are hot and dry, and winters are cold and damp. Ponca soil promotes drainage while maintaining a good water reserve, allowing the roots to grow deep into the ground. This hilly terrain has two inherent characteristics that I always like to point out: Varying altitudes and different exposures. This is all the more true here, where the vineyards are terraced.

A warm region, but one that also offers ideal conditions for white grape varieties—which, not surprisingly, were the stars of the tasting I attended. Pinot Grigio—arguably the one with the most international appeal—and Friulano, the region’s flagship wine, historically associated with the Friuli region and for decades one of the best-known and most highly regarded Italian white wines in the world. The wine’s fame came to an abrupt halt after the requirement to abandon the name “Tocai” in favor of “Friulano.” But the grape variety, Tocai Friulano, remains the same, with its distinctive characteristics. Despite everything, it continues to tell its story and to to tell the story of the region through distinctiveness and longevity—characteristics fostered by the conditions in which it grows.

Getting to Know the Area

These Colli Orientali seem to be the very secret to success. Only a thorough knowledge of the territory allows one to identify the plots best suited for growing Pinot Grigio, which prefers cooler, valley-floor soils that are predominantly clayey. Or those ideal for Tocai Friulano, which, on the other hand, loves sun and heat and is planted on terraces—the characteristic “ronchi.” Probably also thanks to having found An ideal home Both grape varieties have revealed their true character in the form of a natural aptitude for aging.

To accommodate this unique and almost sought-after characteristic, the “Reserve” versions. Friuli Colli Orientali Pinot Grigio Riserva Bandaros and Friuli Colli Orientali Friulano Riserva Masiero.

Verticals of Subtlety and Time

The title of the vertical tasting was definitely evocative. Refinement and the Value of Time. A type of wine that not only tells the story of the potential for development and aging, but also an opportunity for the grape varieties to express themselves to the fullest. My interpretation is that Pinot Grigio is ready to bring out its full international character, being much more sensitive to the vintage. Tocai Friulano, on the other hand, reveals itself as the variety most strongly influenced by the territory—a grape variety more shaped by soil and climate. This is also confirmed by Riccardo Cotarella, alongside Giovanni Casati and Torre Rosazza.

The Riserva version, which is aged at least two years in the cellar starting in November of the harvest year, further enhances these characteristics.

With its Riserva wines, Torre Rosazza demonstrates its appreciation for the grapes as a raw material and for the local territory. Two wines, both Reservas, that truly bring out their best qualities—but beware, they also highlight any potential flaws. It’s a choice that leaves no room for error; after all, taking that risk is the The one and only way to aim to experience—and ultimately touch—uncompromising quality.

The Vintages

Aside from the inevitable nuances caused by the grape varieties, there were some similarities among the vintages tasted. 2023, 2022, and 2021, respectively, for Pinot Grigio and Friulano Riserva. 2024, 2022, and 2018 for vintage Pinot Grigio, and 2023, 2019, and 2018 for vintage Friulano.

Speaking of the Riserva, both grape varieties in the 2021 vintage came across as powerful—including in terms of alcohol content—yet the vintage remains balanced and harmonious. The 2023 vintage is undoubtedly the most focused and contemporary interpretation, with excellent, crisp, and persistent aromas and a structure that promises further development. A separate discussion is warranted for the 2022, a bit out of the ordinary, with a more soothing vibe. It was almost as if to emphasize that in 2022, it was the vintage—and not the grape variety—that dominated everything.

Subtle differences, certainly, but significant ones—reflecting what is not just a product but a true project that begins in the vineyard and reaches our tables only after a long aging process in the cellar.

Friuli Colli Orientali Pinot Grigio Riserva Bandaros 2023 (preview)

Score: 94/100
Estimated price: €25.00

100% Pinot Grigio. Pre-fermentation cryomaceration. Concrete tanks. A pale white color with brilliant highlights. On the nose, citrus fruit with notes of peach and pear. On the palate, it is very briny, with vibrant, fragrant acidity. The slightly bitter finish leaves the palate clean and offers a lingering tension. The grapefruit note is persistent, softened by a well-balanced roundness.

Friuli Colli Orientali Friulano Riserva Masiero 2023 (preview)

Score: 95/100
Estimated price: €25.00

100% Tocai Friulano. Pre-fermentation cryomaceration. Stainless steel, tonneau, and concrete. Straw yellow with green highlights. The nose is fruity, with notes of medlar and yellow spices. The palate has savory tension, with a dry and persistent finish. Light notes of hydrocarbon are beginning to emerge.