Burgundy drinking: Chablis Grands Cru

With this fourth installment we enter the heart of the appellation, tackling the highest level of classification: the Chablis Grand Cru wines. Considered the pinnacle of Chablisienne expression, they are wines with enough structure, depth and complexity to rival the best Chardonnays of the Côte de Beaune.

Grand Crus represent the quintessential Chablis terroir, thanks to the combination of climate, Kimmeridgian soils and a privileged exposure.

Where to find Chablis Grand Cru

The seven Climats Grand Cru are all contiguous and situated on a scenic southwest-facing hillside on the right bank of the Serein River, just outside the village of Chablis. From memory ( repetita iuvant), these “magnificent 7” are: Les Clos, Valmur, Vaudésir, Bougros, Grenouilles, Blanchot and Les Preuses.

Their altitude varies between 100 and 250 meters above sea level, with soil and climate conditions ensuring optimal ripening and different characteristics for each Climat.

In 1938 it was determined that all grand crus would fall under a single appellation linked to the name of the village – Chablis Grand Cru-with a requirement that the name of the individual Climat be listed on the label.

Style and characteristics of Chablis Grand Cru

Compared to the Chablis Premier Cru, here there is an amplification of the typical peculiarities of the area:

• Higher salinity,
• most important structure,
• Superior aromatic and flavor complexity.

This is why many producers choose wood aging, which-when well managed-increases the wine’s depth and supports its extraordinary longevity.

The seven Chablis Grand Cru: characteristics and identity

The Grand Cru classification was formally recognized on January 13, 1938. Here is a concise but accurate overview of the seven Climats.

• Blanchot (12.7 ha): Recognized for finesse, elegance and florality, it is one of the “leaner” Grand Crus while maintaining excellent aging capacity.
• Les Clos (26 ha): The most celebrated and iconic of the Grand Crus. It offers wines of exceptional longevity and impressive complexity. It deserves a dedicated in-depth study with its best producers.
• Valmur (13.2 ha): Located in the central and upper part of the hillside, it produces wines of great structure, power and excellent longevity.
• Grenouilles (9.3 ha): Located on the steepest part of the slope, it gives wines characterized by aromatic power and intense notes.
• Vaudésir (14.7 ha): Also on steep slopes, it is known for its vibrant freshness and intense aromas.
• Les Preuses (11.4 ha): Refined and elegant wines with balsamic and spicy notes and a complexity that makes them among the most appreciated by wine lovers.
• Bougros (12.6 ha): Challenging climat to grow because of steep slopes and frequent frosts, given the proximity to the river. The wines often turn out robust and structured.

Chablis Grand Cru wines represent the highest and most complete expression of Chardonnay from this part of Burgundy. Each of the seven Climats offers a unique interpretation, but all share a mineral tension and evolutionary capacity that make them among the longest-lived and most fascinating whites in the world.

Here are our dedicated tastings.

Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir 2020 Domaine Adrien Besson

Score: 93/100
Average price in wine shop: 80 Euro

100% Chardonnay from vines about 50 years old. About 18 months on the lees in steel and part in Burgundian pièces. Straw yellow of medium intensity, with still greenish reflections. The aromas are delicate and caressing, with appreciable hints of wildflower mowing, powdery, saltiness. The sip is fresh and invigorating, with medium structure, background lime and good persistence.

Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2020 Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin

Score: 94/100
Average price in wine shop: 100 Euro

100% Chardonnay. 10 months 40% in barrel, 60% in steel. Deep straw yellow with gold highlights. Variegated if medium intensity nose, flowers dominate: almond blossom, jasmine, chamomile, with background iodine notes. In the mouth it has great drinkability not only because of its renowned freshness, but also because of its balance and a medium mellowness that caresses the palate.

Chablis Grand Cru Hommage à Louis 2020 Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin

Score: 95/100
Average price in wine shop: 150 Euro

From this maison of nearly 400 years of history, a very special and rare wine with uncommon sensory feedback. The name is a tribute to Louis Droin, who bought the vineyard in 1920. Born from the plots of Les Clos and Valmur.

100% Chardonnay. 10 months aging 50% steel and 50% barrique (20% new). Pale golden color with excellent luster. Very complex aromatic profile, with hints of white fruit and nut pulp, supported by intriguing notes of blond tobacco. The palate is fresh and round, balanced and well-structured. It has refreshing acidity and persistence.

Chablis Grand Cru Grenouille 2002 Chateau Grenouille La Chablisienne

Score: 94/100
Average price in wine shop: 120 Euro

Superb vintage that bestowed great maturity and perfect tertiarization.
100% Chardonnay from vines about 40 years old. 14 months on fine lees, in wood and steel. Intense golden color, without relenting. Net notes of flint, silex, ripe citrus, at times candied, apple, butter, vanilla ending here too with hints tending to wax. Fine flavor texture, long persistence .

Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 2002 Domaine Billaud-Simon

Score: 95/100
Average price in wine shop: 150 Euro

100% Chardonnay. 16 months in French oak (10% new). Pale gold to the eye, unnatural in integrity in this exceptional vintage. Explosive nose of wildflowers, with mostly floral variants, but also evolved into delicious dried fruit, hull, with touch of anisette. On the palate a marriage of acquired softness and a lashing freshness.

Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot 2005 Raveneau

Score 96/100
Average price in wine shop: 850 Euro

100% Chardonnay. About 18 months on fine lees in 228 L pièces and 132 L feuillettes. Deep, bright gold color. The nose is evolved in notes of wildflower honey, white peach, passion fruit, spices such as cinnamon and white pepper. The mouth has amplitude and roundness, caressing and rounded, seasoned by still darting acidity that cheers a drink that is also challenging in expressive force and maturity.

PS: A vintage of grace for Raveneau, when it received a 100/100 from Robert Parker for its epic Les Clos. From that moment on, the market went crazy for this producer.

Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2005 Raveneau

Score 97/100
Average price in wine shop: 900 Euro

100% Chardonnay. 12-18 months on fine lees, in fûts, demi-muids and feuillettes. D brilliant, fascinating gold. The aromatic heritage is extremely complex, with the whole floral and white fruit part. Acacia, hawthorn, wisteria make their way in, but also white melon and cedar. The mouth changes register and the fruit comes out overbearingly as do the stony, siliceous notes. A powerful Chablis in the mouth where the further you go, the more the spices and vanilla, citrus and savoriness come through.