Paolo Valdastri offers us a roundup of restaurants you won’t want to miss if you’re on vacation (or a business trip) along the famous Etruscan Coast, south of Livorno.

There are two issues to address. The first is the old taboo “ “Fish goes with white wine,” but nothing could be further from the truth: if you say this in front of someone from Bordeaux, they’ll mock you for the rest of your life. A Pauillac paired with sea bream in “acqua pazza” is the best you could hope for, provided the fish is a “great” fish and well cooked.

The second problem is historical. You only need to travel a few kilometers inland from the Tuscan coast for the only fish known to the rough-and-tumble hunters of the coastal hills to be salt cod (grilled with freshly pressed olive oil), salted anchovies, or even herring with beans and onions. Only recently has the situation changed slightly, but finding a restaurant that knows how to prepare fish as skillfully as it does a wild boar’s head requires some thorough research. And it is above all the issue of “wild-caught fish” that is the weak link in the coastal gastronomic chain, because fish is becoming increasingly scarce, while demand is skyrocketing.

We therefore invite you on a first journey through cuisines that can satisfy both hunters and fishermen alike, especially with fish that is beyond reproach. Of course, with a well-stocked wine cellar featuring the great wines of the Costa.

Tenuta Merlò Restaurant – Castagneto Carducci

Shimpei Moriyama and Sayuri Tanaka They bring with them a wealth of experience from Il Sale di San Vincenzo. Now both have joined the Vinchiesi family—long-standing pharmacists in the area—in this A New Adventure in the Bolgheri Area.

The charming dining room is furnished with furnishings from an old pharmacy. The cuisine focuses on fresh, perfectly ripened ingredients produced on the estate, including olive oil and wine.

Her culinary touch reveals extraordinary skill and successfully blends elements of Tuscan tradition with Eastern techniques It strikes a splendid balance, creating new harmonies without altering the raw ingredients or the regional character. The atmosphere is extremely welcoming, even on the summer terrace beneath centuries-old trees. The service is attentive and prompt.

Località San Giusto 262/D – 57022 Castagneto Carducci (Livorno)
Tel. +39 0565 884767 – 389 4214820 – 349 5638008
ristorante@tenutamerlo.it
Hours: Friday and Saturday, 7:30 p.m.–11:00 p.m.; Sunday, 12:30 p.m.–3:00 p.m. Open by request for groups of more than 10 people.
In the kitchen: Chef Shimpei Moriyama, Sayuri Tanaka, Tommaso Vinchesi
Front of house: Gaia and Massimo Vinchesi

Ostro Restaurant – Marina di Cecina

Monica Franchi and Andrea Saletti They worked for 15 years at the turn of the millennium at the Casale del Mare restaurant in the hills of Castiglioncello, once the permanent home of the Macchiaioli community, and where entrepreneur Fulvio Martini produces Fortulla wine. After a period of reflection, we find them at their new venture in Cecina Marina in the A bright venue connected to the Hotel Palace Lido strategically located on the seafront.

The restaurant is modern and comfortable, and the food is flavorful and appealing. Monica describes herself as self-taught, but her dishes are impeccable and true to a Fresh ingredients, processed just enough to bring out their best qualities.

The catch of the day takes center stage, always accompanied by crisp, flavorful local vegetables, but red meats and game are also brought out to their best by Monica’s expert touch and complemented by Andrea’s carefully curated selection of wines.

At Palace Lido Hotel & Suites
Largo Fratelli Cairoli 7 – 57023 Marina di Cecina (Livorno)
Tel. +39 0586 424147 – +39 335 815 0946
Hours: Open every evening in the summer.
Owner and chef: Monica Franchi
Dining Room and Wine Cellar: Andrea Saletti.

Chicalinda Restaurant – Marina di Castagneto Carducci

Ristorante Chicalinda – Marina di Castagneto Carducci

An ultra-modern steel-and-glass venue right on on Seggio Beach, on the edge of the pine forest that includes the Antinori family’s Villa delle Sabine and the WWF’s Bolgheri Oasis.

The spectacular sunset, ablaze with red, provides the backdrop for a down-to-earth seafood cuisine where the freshness of the fish is complemented by the skillful touch of Chef Kratochvil—a self-taught chef with experience at restaurants along the coast and on the islands—to offer flavorful, briny dishes.

The fish is sourced daily from the auction at the Livorno Fish Market with a constantly changing selection. Fast, attentive service and very reasonable prices.

Via del Seggio – 57022 Marina di Castagneto Carducci (Livorno)
Tel. +39 0565 1540954 – +39 349 1002567
info@chicalinda.it
Hours: Open daily for lunch and dinner. Closed: February.
Owners: Marco Casini and Matteo Pallini.
In the kitchen: Chef Walter Salvatore Kratochvil

La Baracchina Restaurant – San Vincenzo

Cooking is fun. It takes a lot of love, it takes skill, it takes professionalism, but Cooking should bring joy, not anxiety.. The enjoyment must also extend to the customer and set the stage for the tasting. This is the chef’s philosophy and approach. Enrico Leoncini, who trained at various restaurants along the Etruscan Coast and on Elba.

Here, Enrico has specialized in sourcing ingredients, focusing not only on freshness and flavor, but also seeking creative solutions, as demonstrated by the use of white chocolate alongside fresh shrimp. There are traditional dishes featuring seafood caught between Piombino and Elba, but there’s no shortage of creative twists, such as risotto with shrimp and figs, where cacio e pepe helps balance the sweetness.

The portions are more than generous, the atmosphere is cozy, with an open kitchen, and the service is always very attentive. The beach and the sea are below the terrace and the salty sea breeze offers refreshment even on the hottest days. Reasonable prices.

Via del Faro 43 – 57027 San Vincenzo (Livorno)
Tel. +39 393 9699237
Hours: Always open. Holidays: In November.
Owner: Simone Socci
In the kitchen: Chef Enrico Leoncini, Sous Chef Alessandro Pescucci.

Il Doretto Restaurant – Cecina

We’re not by the sea, but in a country cottage, skillfully renovated, straddling the line between the seafood cuisine of the beach and the land-based cuisine of the hilltop villages—cuisines that are usually strictly distinct from one another.

Chef Rossi , on the other hand, showcases the local traditions of both, interpreted in a contemporary way with meticulous attention to ingredients and preservation of flavors. You can go from a splendid sea bream or shrimp tempura to a mouthwatering “piccione alla riparbellina,” always enjoying dishes prepared to perfection with precise textures and authentic flavors.

A comprehensive wine list featuring good local selections, attentive and thorough service, a cozy restaurant with a lovely outdoor seating area in the summer. Prices are in line with the quality.

Via Pisana Livornese 32 – 57023 Cecina (Livorno)
Tel. +39 0586 668363
Hours: Closed on Wednesdays
Owner and chef: Mirko Rossi, member of Euro-Toques Italia

Here is an additional list of restaurants along the Etruscan Coast that we’ve reviewed in the past.