In the heart of the Pisan Metalliferous Hills, Il Cerreto combines biodynamic agriculture and signature vegetarian cuisine. Maria Probst signs technical and original dishes, based on organic raw materials and internal supply chain.
We are in a rather remote corner of the Metalliferous Hills of Pisa, between Volterra and Pomarance, in an oasis of nearly 500 hectares cultivated organically and biodynamically. Here it operates Maria Probst, a chef with a serene presence and constant smile, with an unexpected past as a graduate butcher.
From Germany comes to Tuscany for an internship at the Red Tent, where he obtained a Michelin star. After closing during Covid and a brief stint at Tower to Cona, lands at the agritourism The Cerreto.
Organic philosophy and zero-meter supply chain
Founded in 1998 by. Carlo Boni Brivio and his wife Paola, Il Cerreto was born from a vision that puts nature at the center, among organic crops, biodynamic practices and in-house supply chain: stone-milled grains (especially ancient grains), vegetables, honey, milk and cheeses from grazing cows. Yogurt, mozzarella and hard cheeses restore intact all the scents of the herbs and wildflowers on which the Pezzate Rosse feed in spring and the hay and grains during winter.
The restored medieval village, complete with a tower dating back to 1250, also houses the agriturismo and the 100 percent biovegetarian restaurant.
Maria Probst, from meat to vegetable cuisine
Mary fell in love with the project and took on a radical challenge: giving up meat and fish to devote herself to the plant world. The technique is not lacking, neither is the imagination. At his side Chef Assunta Pandolfi.
Raw materials are plant-based, all certified organic, with use of dairy and honey for vegetarian preparations. The supply chain is largely zero-meter, with freshness and aromatic intensity evident.
Technique and identity without “meat analog”
The transition required study, especially on thickeners: eliminated from traditional cooking, working with agar-agar and new balances. Mary rejects the “meat analog”: no vegetable sausages or soy burgers, but research on the identity of the dish and the balance of flavors, with few ingredients and hundreds of trials.
Environment and reception
The setting is refined and relaxing: bright room overlooking the kitchen and terrace overlooking the valley, ideal at sunset. The menu follows the seasons and what the Cerreto land offers: freshly baked bread and schiacciate, extra virgin olive oil, organic giardiniere.
Appetizers: balance and raw materials
Prominent among the appetizers is the valerian salad with hot cream of smoked potatoes, sweet and sour onion, sun-dried tomatoes, and truffle shavings, remarkable for texture and balance. In meter zero the mozzarella from the in-house dairy with ciambotta and grilled bread, and interesting the corn tacos with yogurt, asparagus and giardiniera.
First courses: cereals and homemade pasta
In the former, in-house flour production dominates: fresh pasta including stuffed pasta. Piedmontese plin goes vegetarian with ricotta and organic shiitake mushrooms, complemented by a licorice brown base: an original, balanced and mouthwatering dish. Also good are the two-tone button with potatoes and mint, carabaccia sauce and peas, and the risotto of Casentino zucchini, artichokes, marjoram and apple.
Main courses: leading vegetables
Among the main courses, the braised cabbage with beer sauce, olives, capers and herbs, accompanied by batata in fondue, plays on sweet-savory contrasts. Intriguing are the grilled pleurotus mushrooms with beets and sweet and sour sauce, with precise cooking that maintains texture and aroma.
Desserts: creative reinterpretations
In desserts, reinterpretation of the zuccotto with red beet dip flavored with cardamom and vodka: balanced and surprising. Also pleasing are the coconut ingot, chocolate and berries and the open cannoli with saffron cream, strawberries and Amedei chocolate.
Organic winery in the area
The winery follows organic criteria, with certified wines from the territory. Fortunately, the Tuscan coast offers plenty of choice in this area as well, and one can range from bubbles from Montescudaio (La Macchia) and Riparbella (La Regola), to fragrant Vermentinos from Bolgheri (Chiappini), to full-bodied reds from Volterra (Marcampo and Monte Rosola).
BioShop and farm products
Next to the restaurant, the BioShop allows people to buy vegetables, flours, pasta, oil and cheeses, all 100 percent organic and biodynamic, in a welcoming environment. A good organic coffee or freshly squeezed orange juice helps to choose from the products available. Some days are also dedicated to sourdough bread kneaded with organic flours and freshly baked.
