Volvèr lands in Livorno

We are in Livorno on the seaside boulevard that connects the suburb of Antignano with the Ardenza. Ardenza owes its name to the fires that burned anciently in this locality to indicate the presence of shoals to seafarers and, consequently, “Ante Ignes,” Antignano, indicated the arrival in the vicinity of the fires. Today, the main characteristic of Antignano Avenue is that there are no buildings on the sea side in the entire stretch from the Rotonda di Ardenza to the Scoglio della Ballerina.

In one and a half kilometers of waterfront, the only structure with “feet in the water” on the sea side is precisely that of theHotel Universal. Also known by the name of the former owners Chayes. Here it established its new headquarters the Volvèr Restaurant, for now on the dehor on the promenade level, later, probably from October, on the splendid terrace on the high floor overlooking one of the most famous stretches of water in the entire Mediterranean. Ardenza’s Three Bridges Beach constitutes an absolute must, and on libeccio days there is a real show of sailing acrobatics.

Chef Roberto De Franco

Roberto De Franco, soul and body of the Volvèr, he could not resist being away from the sea. After a long eastern break and the season in Cala de’ Medici, surrounded by yachts, he was persuaded by yachtman Eugenio Alphandery to move to the San Carlo Spa in the Apuan Alps where the sea could only be seen in the distance on the horizon. And here, too, the lure of the salty sea got the better of him, and here was his landing in Livorno.

Chef De Franco trained in Tuscany, but very soon began to travel. Hong Kong, Shanghai, Singapore, Baku have decisively influenced his cuisine, which has taken a direction, in my opinion, among the most positive in the modern restaurant scene. The architecture of the dish is always well designed, never pretentious or an end in itself, devoid of unnecessary chromatic excesses. Innovation is present, but it is never merely conceptual, never in need of complex interpretations, airs, myriads of sketches or foams of dubious taste. The raw material is treated with great respect , the ingredient is elegantly inserted and always recognizable, enjoyable and with a close connection to our traditions. Nothing is trivial but it has that extra touch of lightness and aesthetic grace, that elegance that is the basis of oriental cuisines. The raw material always comes out at its best and the Mediterranean flavors prevail over everything.

The choice of dishes includes three options:

• a tasting menu with Volvèr‘s historic classics: pink shrimp tartare, watercolor risotto with squid ink, amberjack with celeriac fondue, the Chocolate Cigar, cost 60 euros.
• a “carte blanche” menu consisting of 5 courses created freehand by the chef using the best raw materials available in the market of the day, cost 70 euros.
• the a la carte menu.

The appetizers range from great seafood crudo to 64° egg with San Miniato black truffle, to Tyrrhenian squid, to beef battuta for stubborn carnivores. I first include, in addition to the classic risotto acquerello al nero, tagliatelle di grano arso alle cicale. A tempting calamarata di Gragnano with squid, shrimp, seafood and fish fillets. Verrigni spaghetti with zucchini, capers and lemon for vegetarians. Finally, a Campania-Calabria fusion dish with Gragnano pasta beans and mussels enriched with Spilinga ‘nduja.

I seconds are obviously based on the catch of the day, cooked on its bone, thus not preserved filleted, or offered first as “unboiled boiled” seafood. Turbot with herbs or amberjack fillet. For the carnivores the proposal includes a baked duck breast with honey, mustard and ginger carrots, while for the vegetarians there is a roasted violet eggplant with cherry fondue, parmesan mousse and basil. It concludes with the ” sweet ideas” where the black silhouette of the Amedei dark chocolate cigar with spiced caramelized pineapple and raspberry sorbet dominates everything. The average cost is around 80 euros.

A focused wine list

La wine list includes a fairly wide selection of wines by the glass for both bubbles, whites and reds among Tuscany, Alto Adige, Collio, Etna and Sardinia. Well stocked is the section of the Champagne dominated by small, lesser-known producers. Of the bubbles from which one can already choose great bottles with a few Tuscan gems like the Montellori Brut. They are on the menu excellent whites of the Tuscan Coast and prestigious names from the rest of Italy. Ettore Germano, Pojer & Sandri, Terlano, Marisa Cuomo, Benanti, Depperu. In short, a fun choice for fish, which also extends to those who like red not only with meat. For the local reds range from Grattamacco to Podere Sapaio, from Caiarossa to Tenuta di Capezzana’s Carmignano. For fish we find excellent Italian Pinot Noirs, or Cos’s Frappato, while for dessert there is a choice of Moscato from La Spinetta, Recioto della Valpolicella or Pojer&Sandri’s original Merlino Rosso absolutely at home with a chocolate cigar.

Soft opening absolutely in line with expectations, both on Chef Roberto and the facility even if the dining room is not the final one. The appointment for the inauguration with placement on the new viewing terrace is postponed until next fall, and we are sure that Roberto De Franco will be able to surprise us further.