Two men with the same name, Silvano Formigli and Silvano Prompicai, two very different Chianti Classico wines. A personal recollection that starts from Fèlsina’s 60 years and goes back to the early 1980s, when Ama and Fèlsina were still little-known realities but already destined to mark the history of Tuscan wine.
The 60th anniversary celebration of Fattoria di Felsina, in Castelnuovo Berardenga, brought back some memories for me. Tied to two people, both with the name Silvano. Related mainly to the fact that they introduced me to two companies in the Chianti Classico, back then almost unknown, now super famous
Ama and Fèlsina, two souls of Chianti Classico
The first Silvano is no more. He was Silvano Formigli, whom I met in 1981 when he was the director of the Castle of Ama. I remember the Bellavista ’78, on its first release. An elegant, edgy red, where acidic freshness prevailed over structure. After all, the vineyard is in the upper part of Gaiole.
The second Silvano, however, is very much alive. I met him for the first time, also in 1981. In the century, his full name is Silvano Prompicai. At the time he was, then did for decades more, a sales representative. Among the wineries he tried to publicize was the Felsina Farm.
Not yet Fontalloro and Rancia, which came out with the ’83 vintage a few years later. Chianti Classico and Riserva were already there, though. They were, if possible, the opposite of Ama’s. Powerful, full-bodied, consistent with the origin, since they came from Castelnuovo Berardenga.
The lesson of diversity
They taught me that it is in the diversity that is the true character of wines. Their expression must be as consistent as possible with the origin and they must represent it.
In this case the wines were also, amazingly, similar to the two Silvani. Formigli, Tuscan, Chiantian, wry and smiling. Prompicai, from Bergamo, two meters tall, with a baritone voice and assertive sentences.
That’s all that needs to be said, I think.
