Puligny Montrachet represents the quintessential Burgundian Chardonnay: precision, finesse and verticality. A seemingly austere territory that generates some of the world’s greatest whites. Vinogodi goes on to tell the tale of its “drinking Burgundy.”
It is difficult to associate a territory as stark and almost barren as Puligny Montrachet with the birth of the world’s greatest white wines. Yet it is precisely here that the Chardonnay reaches one of its purest and deepest expressions. Perhaps it is a catharsis to compensate for the sensations one feels when crossing, in the lonely winter hours, an almost ghostly landscape, brightened exclusively by the world’s most legendary white grape vines.
Montrachet, symbolic name
In 1879 Puligny was granted permission to tie its name to Montrachet, the most famous vineyard. The names of its legendary vineyards, along with the appellations Grand Cru and Premier Cru, appear on wine labels. In Puligny one concentrate some of the most iconic Grand Cru, shared in part with Chassagne, but with a distinct stylistic identity.
If Chassagne is structure and Meursault is breadth, Puligny is precision. His wines are vertical, chiseled, played on elegance, minerality and aromatic depth.
International critics-including me-consider Montrachet the best white wine in the world. We will elaborate on this topic in future installments.
A mosaic of extraordinary cru
As mentioned, a number of famous Grand Crus (Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet) belong entirely to Puligny, while two others are shared with Chassagne by about 50 percent (Bâtard-Montrachet and Montrachet). Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, on the other hand, falls entirely within the territory of Chassagne.
With about 310 hectares under vine, Puligny is home to some of the most prestigious vineyards in the world. Premier Cru and Grand Cru yield long-lived wines capable of complex and fascinating evolutions.
The origin of the name is curious., which would derive from “Pul” (swamp, mud), hence muddy place: an etymology that is surprising today, considering that some of the world’s best white grapes for wine production are grown on these soils.
Some memorabilia samples
Puligny-Montrachet 2017 Domaine Leflaive
Score: 95/100
Average price: € 280,00
100% Chardonnay. Steel and barrique (about 25% new) for 12 months on the lees.
Greenish yellow with straw highlights (nn spite of 8 years of age, it looks freshly bottled). Intense and nuanced nose of wild flowers, citrus and wet rock. Taut and refined mouthfeel, with fresh and enveloping notes, great elegance and progression.
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Combettes 2017 Jean-Marc Boillot
Score: 93/100
Average price: € 200,00
100% Chardonnay. Barrique (about 20% new) for 12 months.
Intense straw yellow with some golden hues. Aromas of white peach, hazelnut and honey accompanied by minimal spice. Mouth warm, soft and velvety, supported by acidity and good depth.
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru La Truffière 2016 Bruno Colin
Score: 95/100
Average price: € 180,00
100% Chardonnay. Barrique for 12 months:
Light yellow with green highlights. Aromas of acacia, lime and butter, with herbaceous hints. Rich and creamy mouthfeel, balanced by freshness and long persistence.
La Trouffière is one of Puligny’s most renowned crus, which owes its name to the copious presence of truffles in the area. Its location, a privileged one, is right on top of the hill below the village of Blagny.
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Perrières 2015 Etienne Sauzet
Score: 95/100
Average price: € 240,00
100% Chardonnay. Barrique (about 30% new) for 12 months.
Pale gold. Fine, layered aromas of spices, especially white pepper, daisies and tea, great olfactory meditation. Sleek and elegant mouthfeel, with great drinkability and stylistic precision.
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Enseignères 2014 Domaine Ramonet
Score: 96/100
Average price: € 300,00
100% Chardonnay. Barrique for 12 months.
Golden yellow with green highlights. Intense floral nose with notes from flower store, daisies, peach blossoms, with typically “Ramonet” recognition. Energetic mouthfeel, rich in finesse and elegant, with very long finish.
Masterful interpretation by this artist from Chassagne who also wanted to try his hand at Puligny.
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Clavoillon 2001 Domaine Leflaive
Score: 96/100
Average price: € 450,00
100% Chardonnay. Barrique for 12 months on the lees.
Relatively deep and bright yellow. Evolved aromas of honey, mango jelly and yellow plum. Ample and enveloping mouthfeel, with soft and caressing texture, great depth.
From vines over 70 years old, a living example of how a great Puligny-Montrachet can age.
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Pucelles 2020 Domaine Leflaive
Score: 97/100
Average price: € 700,00
100% Chardonnay. Barrique (about 25% new) for 12 months on the lees.
Medium intensity yellow with definite green hues. Vertical nose between citrus, noisette, pine needles, spices and smoky notes. Taut and vibrant mouthfeel of great energy and freshness, with an incredible evolutionary perspective.
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Enseignères 2008 Coche-Dury
Score: 98/100
Average price: € 1.600,00
100% Chardonnay. Barrique for 18 months.
Bright yellow. Mythical purity of aromas: very fine sensations of gunpowder over flowers such as wisteria and jasmine, spicy and balsamic notes. Powerful and vibrant mouthfeel, with extraordinary energy and persistence.
Here is another master, this time from Meursault, taking on an area originally “not his own.”
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Folatières 2002 Domaine Leflaive
Score: 98/100
Average price: € 750,00
100% Chardonnay. Barrique for 12 months on the lees.
Intense yellow with light golden reflections due to age. Caressing, complex aromas with an almost wild impact of medicinal herbs, then more reassuring aromas of candied fruit, light coffee, white pepper and creek flint. Masterful taste impact for balance, purity and depth, richly nuanced sip and very long persistence.
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru En La Richarde 2002 Domaine d’Auvenay Leroy
Score: 99/100
Average price: € 6.000,00
100% Chardonnay. Barrique for 18 months.
Disorienting visual impact, both in texture and color, pure liquid gold. The elegance with which it presents itself on the nose is a prelude to excitement: ample aromas of incense, balsamic notes, exotic fruit, spices and pastry. Slight smoky puffs. Mouth enveloping and sumptuous, warm and soft, an infinite caress…
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