Les Perrières is the Premier Cru of Meursault that has always lived a misunderstanding: classified 1er Cru, but considered by market and critics a true Grand Cru. Limestone and pebbly soils, limited extension and legendary longevity make it a cru of absolute excellence, capable of comparing itself without complex with the great whites of Puligny and Chassagne. A journey through different interpretations, united by depth, energy and timeless class. Vinogodi‘s story continues.
A Premier Cru from Grand Cru
Les Perrières carries with it one of the most obvious “injustices” of the Burgundian classification. From the earliest nineteenth-century maps, it was considered to be tête de cuvée, the highest quality accolade of the time, and is still treated as such today. (This kind of misclassification is historically present in other Burgundian areas as well, especially on red wines. Glaring examples, as we shall see in later articles, Clos Saint Jacques in Gevrey Chambertin, Malconsort and Cros Parantoux in Vosne Romanée, Les Amoureuses in Chambolle Musigny.)
With only 13 hectares, the cru shows amazing expressive variability while maintaining a very high standard of quality. Land characteristics of the wines appear transfigured from a common thread that should unite them. The longevity of the wines is proverbial and does not fear comparison with neighboring white grand crus, such as Chassagne and Puligny.
Stones, limestone and historical memory
The name Perrières (= small stones) comes from the subsoil: pure limestone and widespread stoniness, pebbles, which imprint the wines with an unmistakable mineral signature. Parceling is extreme and the role of the vigneron becomes decisive in shaping the final style.
Les Perrières: measure, depth, eternity
Les Perrières is not only Meursault’s most celebrated Premier Cru: it is a symbolic place, where the structural power typical of the appellation translates into mineral energy, precision and longevity off the scale.
Here the Chardonnay forgoes any easy opulence to play on tension, depth and layering, laying bare the dialogue between stone, time and the vigneron’s hand.
In the next chapter of the trip to Meursault, we will change register slightly: more nuances of one of the most complex and fascinating territories of white Burgundy.
ASSAGES
Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 2019 Château de Charodon
Score: 94/100
Average price: 150 €
100% Chardonnay. Aged in oak barrels for about 12 months.
Deep straw yellow with golden hues. Original aromas of brioche bread, dried Avola almonds and yellow plums. The palate shows substance and a measured, generous and enveloping fatness. Elegant interpretation of cru.
Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 2015 Pascal Matrot
Score: 95/100
Average price: 150 €
100% Chardonnay. Aged in used oak fût for about 12 months.
Pale gold with greenish highlights of impressive integrity. Fruity but not tropical aromas (exoticism shunned by the Matrot sisters): rennet apple and Kaiser pear, accompanied by white flowers and the background almond. Taut, balanced mouthfeel of great finesse. An elegant, persuasive wine without sacrificing substance.
Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 2013 Domaine Michelot
Score: 95/100
Average price: 220 €
100% Chardonnay. Aged in barrique for about 12 months, moderate use of new wood.
Intense but bright golden color. Delicate and complex nose, with citrus, walnut husk and an incisive mineral verve. Palate fresh, caressing, seductive, with very convincing persistence. Dominant elegance.
Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 2008 Henri Boillot
Score: 95/100
Average price: 310 €
100% Chardonnay. Aged in barrels for about 12 months.
Intense, intact gold. Paradigmatic nose with alpine butter, vanilla and dried fruit. Mouth decidedly broad, structured, enveloping and velvety, surprisingly supported by freshness and drinkability.
Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 2008 Vincent Dancer
Score: 96/100
Average price: 620 €
100% Chardonnay. Aged in barrels for about 12 months.
Deep gold color. Broad, spicy nose, with plenty of yellow fruit, turmeric and passion fruit. In the mouth it is soft, rich, caressing, with great substance and stylistic consistency.
From relatively recent history but with great talent, Vincent Dancer is climbing the qualitative heights in the region.
Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 2005 Lucien Le Moine
Score: 95/100
Average price: 190 €
100% Chardonnay. Aged in oak barrels for about 12 months.
Deep golden. Tropical aromas of mango and papaya, spicy undertones of white pepper and ginger. Toasted and smoky notes are not lacking. Powerful but balanced mouthfeel, with glyceric importance and remarkable harmony.
Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 2002 Pierre Morey
Score: 96/100
Average price: 350 €
100% Chardonnay. Aged in oak fût for about 12 months.
Solemn vintage that presents itself in the deep, textural gold color. Almost unnatural olfactory synthesis between yellow fruit, citrus, peanuts, dried flowers. Mouth of gentle opulence, infinite in caress and depth.
Sharecropping experiences for two White Burgundy legends such as Comte Lafon and Domaine Leflaive led Pierre Morey to acquire incredible skills in interpreting Chardonnay.
Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 2007 Ramonet
Score: 98/100
Average price: 1.000 €
100% Chardonnay. Aged in barrels for about 12 months.
Deep gold. Explosive nose of wild flowers, acacia honey, walnut husk and pineapple. Mouth warm and enveloping, powerful, almost saturating, with interminable persistence.
Very important wine, because the demigod of Chassagne wanted to try his hand at Meursault (with exceptional results). At the same time, almost mythological wine, never really marketed but distributed exclusively to big customers or big fans. To have a few bottles of it was a (chief)work of research and empathy towards the producer.
Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 2011 Domaine Roulot
Score: 97/100
Average price: 1.400 €
100% Chardonnay. Aging: 12 months in barrique + 6 months in tank, minimum bâtonnage.
Deep, bright golden yellow. Intense, complex and dynamic aromas: spices, Golden apple, melon, summer flowers. Mouth majestic, enveloping, rare character. Mileage persistence.
Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 1999 Comtes Lafon
Score: 99/100
Average price: 800 €
100% Chardonnay. Aged in barrels for about 12-18 months.
Deep, dense gold. Nose decidedly horizontal in complexity without excluding vertical depth: flirtatious cedar note, honey, vanilla, ripe jujubes, cinnamon. Mouth full, rich, enveloping, almost “red” in structure. Memorable finish.
One of the wines that, in yes exceptional vintage, demonstrated the incredible longevity of producer and category.
