Pommard and Volnay, the two hearts of the Côte de Beaune

So similar, yet so different. Although adjacent, Volnay and Pommard—setting aside the vignerons’ interpretations—often yield very different organoleptic profiles. Far from making easy generalizations, in Volnay , Pinot Noir expresses itself with elegance, a non-imposing structure, and great finesse. As early as the 18th century, it was called the “wine of the ladies,” precisely because of its enchanting lightness. In Pommard, by contrast, the wines are more “masculine,” with a pronounced tannic structure, almost austere. I’d say they have a “Nebbiolo-like” character.

The Sweet Volnay

The history of winemaking in Volnay has been linked over the centuries to various religious orders and institutions. In particular, to the development of the region carried out by the Cistercians in the 14th century. Geologically, the subsoil consists mainly of limestone and marl; the vineyards stretch across the slopes of the Côte de Beaune, with very gentle slopes that do not exceed 280 meters above sea level.
Today, theappellation comprises 29 Premier Cru-classified climats, covering nearly 144 hectares: differences in exposure and soil that, together with the vignerons’ expertise, are reflected with remarkable precision in the wines.

Pommard: Strength and Time

The origins of Pommard’s winemaking history are lost in the mists of time: even the name appears to date back to the Roman Empire—it is traditionally traced to *Pommareum*, “place of fruits,” or to Pomona, the Roman goddess of fruits. The development of viticulture was also linked to monastic orders, particularly the Benedictines.
Today, out of a total of 125 hectares, 28 Premier Cru-classified climats, some of which are shrouded in an almost mythical aura due to their quality. Renowned for a power almost unheard of in Pinot Noir, the finest Pommards have aging potential among the most remarkable in all of Burgundy, thanks to their distinctive structural characteristics.

Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans 2001 Domaine de Montille

Rating: 96/100
Estimated price: €130

100% Pinot Noir. In oak barrels oak barrels; traditional vinification with a significant proportion of whole clusters.
Light red with garnet hues. The aromas are classic: noble wild mushrooms, wild strawberries, and fruit jellies. On the palate, it is velvety, round, full-bodied, yet extremely elegant.

Hubert De Montille became a legend in Burgundy after the film *Mondovino*, as a “spokesperson” for Burgundy’s great farming tradition, in contrast to the large-scale, almost “industrial” operations of other regions. A traditionalist like his heirs today, he crafted his wines in the spirit of the great tradition and with a focus on longevity. Champans is one of the largest crus in Volnay.

Pommard 1er Cru Le Clos des Boucherottes Monopole 2020 Domaine Coste-Caumartin

Score: 93/100
Estimated price: €65

100% Pinot Noir. Aged in oak.
Deep red with purple highlights. On the nose, fresh black fruits—blackberries and blueberries—with a noticeable mineral note and a hint of herbaceous character. The palate is austere, with robust tannins and good intensity; the finish remains fruity.

Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots 2015 Lucien Le Moine

Score: 94/100
Estimated price: €195

100% Pinot Noir from clay-limestone soil. Long aging in oak barrels.
A ruby red with beautiful intensity and brilliance. The nose reveals fruity notes of forest floor, bold spices, holly, and raspberry jam. The palate is full of energetic vigor, with well-structured tannins that are well-balanced and supported by fresh acidity.

Pommard 1er Cru 2000, Domaine de Montille

Score: 95/100
Estimated price: €130

100% Pinot Noir. Aged in oak barrels.
Very light red with orange highlights. On the nose, hints of undergrowth, fallen leaves, chanterelles, raspberry jelly, a very light touch of blond tobacco, and balsamic notes. On the palate, it impresses with its still-vibrant freshness and smoothness, featuring tannins of unique finesse and austere depth.

This cuvée is listed in historical records simply as Pommard 1er Cru.

Pommard Les Vaumuriens 2010, Domaine Coche-Dury

Score: 96/100
Estimated price: €300

100% Pinot Noir. Aged in oak barrels.
Still a fiery red, despite its great clarity and moderate concentration. The aromas are extraordinarily floral—wisteria and poppy—and give way to notes of black cherry jam and cocoa. On the palate, it is intense and highly expressive, with fine yet well-distributed tannins.

The master craftsman of Chardonnay also captivates with this red.

Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux Monopole 2006 Comte Armand

Score: 96/100
Estimated price: €110

100% Pinot Noir. Aged for approximately 18–24 months in oak barrels, with up to 30% new oak.
Still a vibrant red, with just a few garnet hues. The aromas are ethereal, though not extremely intense, but become more complex with aeration, revealing notes of blackberry and raspberry jam, a hint of blood orange zest, and mineral undertones. The palate is enveloped in a silky texture, with very dense yet incredibly fine tannins that are never harsh. Remarkable length.

The Pommard’s rustic character in its youth is counterbalanced by immense elegance after years of aging, as is the case with this rare and prized monopole from the specialist Comte Armand

Pommard Les Vignots 2001, Domaine Leroy

Score: 97/100
Approximate price: €2,600

100% Pinot Noir. Aged in wood; in 2001, the Domaine bottled the wine as early as late August to preserve the freshness and purity of the fruit.
A relatively deep red with orange hues. The nose is dominated by balsamic and incense notes—a hallmark of Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy—with hints of basil, medicinal herbs, and wild strawberries. On the palate, it is persuasive and caressing, velvety, and well-balanced with lively acidity. Impressive length.

It comes from a small plot of approximately 1.25 hectares, so the quantity produced is very limited and availability is rare.