The vertical tasting of four vintages of Brunello di Montalcino Castelgiocondo offered a journey through thirty years of Brunello, during which techniques, sensibilities, and climatic conditions have changed, yet this region’s ability to produce deep, long-lived wines with a distinct identity remains unchanged.
In the southwestern heart of Montalcino, where the breezes of the Maremma meet the Tuscan woods and the view stretches all the way to the sea, stands Castelgiocondo. More than just a vineyard, it is one of the distinctive landscapes of the Brunello region. Here, Sangiovese is not simply grown, but finds one of the defining features of the southern region. The credit goes to a diverse mosaic of soils: rich in galestro, clay, and Pliocene sands that wind along slopes of varying gradients, caressed by a unique microclimate. The result? A wine that achieves a perfect balance between maturity and tension. A Brunello with a distinctive personality: sunny, structured, yet always imbued with a sense of freshness and finesse that accompanies its evolution over time.
The story of a family, an estate, and a wine
The history of Castelgiocondo is intertwined with that of the Marchesi Frescobaldi, one of the oldest dynasties in Italian winemaking, with a presence in Tuscany for over seven centuries. Their arrival in Montalcino dates back to late 1980s, when Frescobaldi acquired the historic estate, which had already played a key role in the early history of modern Brunello. Since then, the family has focused its efforts on highlighting the identity of the region through meticulous viticulture and a constant quest for balance between tradition and modern elegance.
This vertical tasting of four vintages of Brunello di Montalcino Castelgiocondo illustrates precisely this: the ability of a great terroir to reflect the passage of time, the changing seasons, and the stylistic evolution of a winery that has made longevity and consistent expression its hallmarks.
An exceptional guide: Lamberto Frescobaldi
The tasting was led by Lamberto Frescobaldi: authentically Tuscan in manner and character, deeply connected to his roots yet, at the same time, possessing a rare openness to dialogue and a contemporary vision of wine and the region.
The vintages tasted are: 2021, 2016, 2006, and 1995. Even in the glass, the four vintages reveal a stylistic evolution between the more recent vintages and the older ones: the latter characterized by longer macerations and deep extractions, while in the more recent vintages one senses a desire to accelerate the wine’s development to adapt to changing climatic conditions, while keeping the wine’s distinctive elegance intact.
Brunello di Montalcino 2021 Castelgiocondo
Score: 93/100
Approximate price: € 35
A very dynamic growing season: a rainy and mild winter, which led to slightly earlier budbreak. The summer that followed was hot and long, but the ideal daily temperature fluctuations allowed the grapes to ripen perfectly.
In the glass, it has a brilliant garnet color. On the nose, it has elegant yet understated, with notes of blackberry and blueberry, hints of undergrowth and juniper berries, and a subtle spiciness of black pepper and nutmeg. The palate is warm and full-bodied, with a lingering finish reminiscent of fruit that is still crisp and ripe.
Brunello di Montalcino 2016 Castelgiocondo
Score: 95/100
Estimated price: €55
A vintage that needs little introduction: complex and demanding, yet considered one of the best ever. The mild winter led to early budbreak, as early as late March. The cool, rainy spring, followed by a hot but moderate summer, allowed for slow and complete ripening, with grapes in perfect health.
Vivid garnet. The nose is striking for its extraordinary freshness: morello cherry, blackcurrant, and blackberry intertwine with balsamic notes, tobacco, hints of iodine, and umami nuances. On the palate, it is refined, slender, and elegant, with an exceptionally long finish. Its lively acidity and hints of fresh fruit make it seem almost “younger” than its 10 years.
Brunello di Montalcino 2006 Castelgiocondo
Score: 91/100
Approximate price: € 120
Favorable weather conditions, with a mild spring, low rainfall, and limited temperature fluctuations. A very hot July, followed by a cooler August, contributed to a rich bouquet.
The color is a deep, impenetrable garnet. On the nose, the extractive character of the vintage and the style of the era immediately comes to the fore, with notes of tamarind, dry leaves, roots, roasted coffee, and pungent spices such as black pepper, cinnamon, and cardamom. On the palate, it impresses with its structure and concentration, though it displays a more restrained finish and less pronounced freshness compared to more recent vintages.
Brunello di Montalcino 1995 Castelgiocondo
Score: 94/100
Estimated price: €70
A cold and rainy vintage. The spring, marked by low temperatures, delayed budbreak, while the cool, damp summer made the contribution of the sun and late-season temperatures essential to ensure gradual and balanced ripening. According to the producer, 1995 is considered an excellent vintage.
In the glass, it displays orange-hued reflections. The nose is deep and intriguing, opening with an intense hint of black truffle, followed by dried medicinal herbs, blueberries preserved in alcohol, and allspice. On the palate, the tannins are still present but perfectly integrated, with good length and a mouthfeel that manages to be both structured and agile. A “old-school” Brunello, yet one capable of balancing its extraction with surprising drinkability.
