There are dreams that take decades to come true. Ronco Calino is one of them, long left in the drawer, but which has finally blossomed and grown to its current reality.
We are in Franciacorta, and this is the story of a dream that remained in the drawer for many years and then, one day, turned into reality. On a day where it rains cats and dogs (as the English say) from the sky, we land at Ronco Calino, small local winery at the apex of the moraine amphitheater. Family atmosphere and youthful staffo for a winery far from the large numbers of the more emblazoned wineries, with a production of about 80,000 bottles – out of a total of about 20 million in the appellation, about half of which is produced by only three wineries – gradually consolidated year after year.
A bit of corporate history
The history of the company tells us Serena, with a precision and warmth that makes us feel how the very young company staff feels like an integral part of this big family. Ronco Calino was born from a boy’s dream, that of Paul Roots. Originally from Bergamo, Paolo had grown up in a family with a strong industrial company, the Radici Group, active in textiles and then in plastic polymers. Although his path was already set, Paolo cultivated a great passion for wine.
Initially, his youthful dreams were curbed by his father, who invited him to take charge of the family business. Thus the wine dream remained in the drawer for 30 years, perhaps dusty, but never forgotten. Until 1996, when the perfect opportunity presented itself, a splendid estate that included the current residence and 10 hectares of vineyards surrounding it. These 10 hectares still constitute the main body of the estate, to which only 2.5 hectares were added in Provaglio d’Iseo, bringing the total area to about 13 hectares. The only thing missing was the winery, which was built between 1999 and 2000.
Wine to share with friends
From the very beginning, the company was born with a family vocation, with a desire to make wine to share with friends, without an entrepreneurial bent that was already part of working life in the family business. Among the choices that have marked the identity of Ronco Calino is also that of investing in Pinot Noir which accounts for 25 percent of the vineyard, particularly suited to this cool, breezy, north-facing micro-zone. Since 2016 the estate has been organic, a further piece of the approach of the property that lives on the estate and pushed toward this choice.
Today this place is a true spectacle of design, with attention to every detail on the inside, with huge windows that allow a 360-degree view of the estate vineyards. A minimalist and clean architecture, un large openspace for reception and an elegant tasting room with a long table framed by the vineyards.
Since 2019, labels have also changed, the restyling has made them essential and minimal, following the leitmotif of the company spaces and the wines produced, which are also precise and sharp.
Franciacorta Satèn SA Ronco Calino
Score: 91/100
Approximate price in wine shop: € 27
100% Chardonnay (20% vinified in barrique). Classic method, 36 months on lees, 2020 vintage base. Intense strawberry. Aromatic and floral nose, yellow flowers, mimosa, ripe apple and slight hints of honey. On the palate it is citrusy to saline, with good persistence.
Franciacorta Brut SA Ronco Calino
Score: 90/100
Approximate price in wine shop: € 24
80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir. Classic method, 42 months on lees, base vintage 2020, 2019 and 2018. Disgorgement November 2024. Intense strawberry. Floral and spicy nose. Yellow rose, spice paste and light notes of roasting, coffee. Mouth full, fresh and saline.
Franciacorta Nature 2019 Ronco Calino
Score: 93/100
Approximate price in wine shop: € 33
70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir. Classic method, 42 months on the lees. Straw-yellow in color. Nose crisp and vertical, precise and fine with citrus and chalk sensations. In the mouth it is creamy, taut and subtle, with good body and right balance. Closes long on citrus and savory sensations.
Franciacorta Brut 2018 Ronco Calino
Score: 92/100
Approximate price in wine shop: € 35
60 Chardonnay 40% Pinot Noir, Old vines from a single historic parcel. New barrels for half of the Chardonnay. Classic method, 55 months on the lees. Disgorgement December 2023. Golden yellow. Intense, enveloping nose with sensations of yellow peach, yellow flowers, mimosa, shortbread, light spices, saffron and a faint note of pan grillé. On the palate it is full and rich with a sumptuous finish of candied citrus.
