The lost classicism of the Brunello, but not only that

Before talking about classicism of Brunello, one should consider the great changes that have taken place in the last 30 years. Not only climate change, but also the evolution of viticulture and enology.

Filippo Paoletti, winemaker-and certainly not a runaway-went on commenting on the editorial about anachronistic Brunellos, pointing out how climate change has affected the characters of the wines. In this case, those from the southern part of Montalcino.

He writes me , “Dear Daniele, that’s right: as always you hit the nail on the head. It seems that the 15 degrees are a choice, but they are a consequence. I have had the pulse of the Sangiovese from Sesta Road for 26 vintages and, with the same phenolic ripeness, I have seen the pHs go from 3.2 to 3.6 and the potential alcohol go up 2 degrees. You want to leave canopy to equalize, it’s not physiologically possible.”

Is it really possible to return to a “lost classicism”?

What does all this mean? It simply means that in order to return to a “lost classicism”-assuming it is really possible-it would be necessary to intervene invasively at both the viticultural and enological levels. By producing more per vine, anticipating harvests, acidifying, limiting macerations… just to name a few of the possible practices.

True: this would probably “lighten” the wines. But one would have greener tannins, less antioxidant, among other things, and bound to veer quickly toward bitter notes. Perhaps they would be reminiscent of certain great reds of the 1970s, have perhaps a lower alcohol content. But I would like to recall softly that it was precisely in Montalcino, at that time, that Brunellos, even Franco Biondi Santi’s legendary ones, had decided ups and downs between harvests.

How many, in fact, were the Greppo Reserves in the 1970s?
And how many were the not-so-exciting wines?
In addition, what were the vineyards like then? What planting distances did they have, how many exceeded 3-4 thousand vines per hectare?

Modern viticulture and climate: two inseparable factors

Thus, there is no doubt that climate change has been and is decisive, but equally true is that the evolution of viticulture and oenology has profoundly-and positively, I would argue-affected current quality.

If then the wines from those areas today reach higher alcohol contents, it will mean that we will lower the serving temperature by a couple of degrees and drink a little less. Without distorting anything and without going in search of a perhaps idealized “lost classicism.”