Increasingly participatory and qualitative preview. The 2022 vintage highlights different stylistic directions, between climatic balance, over-ripening and new lighter interpretations. Good Pievi, interesting some Reserves, with an evolving appellation. Riccardo Viscardi tells us about them.
TheAnteprima del Nobile di Montepulciano proves to be more and more interesting: the number of producers present grows, the average quality steadily improves, and between the widespread lunches and round tables between journalists and producers, the stay is enjoyable as well as useful.
Vintage 2022: lights and shadows
2022, with Reserves and second editions of Pievi, shows contrasting aspects. The issue is not so much territorial as related to production choices and the producers’ own capabilities.
The slight increase in temperatures, seen as an advantage for an area with a more continental climate such as Montepulciano compared to other Tuscan DOCGs, has led in many cases to wines with softer tannins and balanced olfactory profiles. Alongside these, however, less successful interpretations persist: overly pushed ripeness, aggressive tannins, out-of-scale alcohol and overripe aromatic profiles.
The “third way” of the new generation
A further interpretation is emerging, a lighter and sometimes too simple line, often supported by younger producers: graceful wines, rarefied tannins, subtle flavor texture, aromas on light fruits and sometimes green notes. Very drinkable wines and when there is balance they work, but there is no shortage of simplified products, at times trivial and not very expressive, more ideological than territorial.
However, the coexistence of styles makes it easy to find a Nobile suited to different tastes, and that is what is needed for the revival of the appellation. It will be time, market and greater awareness that will define the future contours of the appellation.
Pievi and Riserva
Pievi 2022 are convincing, a sign that the project has been well received by producers, albeit with some inevitable slips due to the increase in the number of wineries trying their hand at this new wine. In addition, the technical time required by the specification, between aging and bottling (the latter a minimum of one year), makes some samples still ready. Positive were the retastings of Pievi 2021 already reviewed in The Essential Guide 2026.
Some very interesting Riserva 2022: obvious stylistic differences from Pievi in form, but not in qualitative substance, as if a “Pieve effect” had been created within the companies with a qualitative benefit to the other labels as well.
Intra-company comparisons show changes related to the contribution of international grape varieties or the difference between single vineyard and blends of various territories, while still maintaining the austere character typical of the area.
An institutional step
Finally, we would like to point out a further goal achieved by the Consortium: an ad hoc commission for the Docg Pievi, separate from the Vino Nobile one, with the possibility of choosing some commissioners: a sign of further seriousness of the project.
These are our best tastings:
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve 2022
- Boscarelli, Pieve Cervognano Costa Grande – 95/100
- Le Berne, Pieve Cervognano Alto – 95/100
- Poliziano, Pieve Caggiole – 95/100
- Tenuta Calimaia Frescobaldi, Pieve Cervognano Viacroce – 95/100
- Vecchia Cantina Di Montepulciano, Pieve Cerliana Cantina del Redi- 95/100
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Riserva and Selections)
- Avignonesi, Poggetto di Sopra 2022 – 95/100
- Bindella, Vallocaia Reserve 2022 – 95/100
- Il Molinaccio di Montepulciano, Riserva La Poiana 2020 – 94/100
- Podere Sanguineto I&II, Reserve 2021 – 93/100
- Fattoria del Cerro, Silineo 2022 – 93/100
