Although snubbed by some wine enthusiasts, Pinot Grigio has been embraced by the market—especially in North America—and has found a strong Italian identity in the Triveneto region. From its fresh and approachable style to more complex interpretations, right up to the return of the Ramato, this grape variety is capable of showcasing a wide range of characteristics. Riccardo Viscardi tells us more.
A success that divides opinions
Little is said about Pinot Grigio, and what is said is often negative: die-hard wine enthusiasts tend to relegate it to the “second-tier” grape varieties, while on the market it is highly regarded and has established a strong Italian identity, especially in the Triveneto. Even abroad, particularly in the North American market, it enjoys this status thanks to critical acclaim, as critics consider it the quintessential Italian white wine.
I think it is precisely this American perspective that gives rise to the dichotomy between the market and wine enthusiasts, which already reveals the various facets of the grape variety. Pinot Grigio, which has enjoyed such success in that market, creating a true “Italian style”, is a fruity wine (often with pear notes), fairly easy to drink but not mundane, and with a great versatility when it comes to food pairings paired with dishes from various international cuisines. Furthermore, when served slightly chilled, it also works well as an aperitif. This wine stood in stark contrast to the Alsatian and German Pinot Gris wines, which are certainly more complex but also less versatile at the table and decidedly more austere. How could the same grape variety produce such different wines?
One grape variety, many interpretations
Grigio is related to Pinot Noir and has a slightly pigmented skin that takes on coppery hues as it ripens. It is therefore clear that the timing of the harvest and winemaking techniques have a significant impact on the final product. From this versatility have given rise to the interpretations that have set Italian Pinot Grigio apart from other European varieties abroad.
In our region, there have been—and still are— various interpretations of this grape variety, which thrives in moderately fertile soils with good water reserves. Friuli, the Isonzo area is a benchmark, but the lower-lying areas of Collio are also noteworthy. In Veneto , Pinot Grigio thrives especially in the breezy plains of the eastern region, between the Piave and Lison-Pramaggiore rivers, on the morainic hills of Lake Garda, and in certain foothill areas near Vicenza and Verona.
The return of Ramato
In recent years, the “Ramata” style has made a comeback, representing the centuries-old tradition of this grape variety. In this case, we can almost describe it as a rosé, starting with its color, which results from more or less prolonged maceration. This also yields a slight tannic component that, though difficult to define, represents its truest essence.
It is, therefore, a grape variety with at least three distinct and almost contrasting ones, allowing not only the terroir but also the producer to highlight the aspect that most fascinates or best represents them.
The same grape variety, different wines
We invite you to join us on a journey through a selection of wines from different regions, each representing a distinct facet of Pinot Grigio:
- Alto Adige, Isarco Valley, Pinot Grigio 2025 Köfererhof, 96/100 – €20.00
- Trentino Pinot Grigio Riserva 2023 Cantina Furletti, 93/100 – €25.00
- Valdadige Terradeiforti Pinot Grigio Rivoli 2024 Roeno, 94/100 – €20.00
- Friuli Pinot Grigio 2025 Pierpaolo Pecorari, 94/100 – €11.00
- Friuli Isonzo Pinot Grigio Gris 2024 Lis Neris, 93/100 – €30.00
- Collio Pinot Grigio 2025 Colle Duga, 95/100 – €18.00
- Collio Pinot Grigio 2024 Drius, 94/100 – €17.50
- Friuli Colli Orientali Pinot Grigio Ramato 2025 Valentino Butussi, 94/100 – €20.00
