From his meeting with Giuseppe Quintarelli to the founding of Zymè, Celestino Gaspari has forged his own path, blending the heritage of Valpolicella with innovation. In the winery carved out of an ancient sandstone quarry, wines with a strong identity take shape, from the fresh Rêverie to the long-aged Harlequin and La Mattonara. Six tastings illustrate his vision.
Briefly describe Celestino Gaspari is extremely difficult for those who have known him for decades: a dreamer, a visionary, tenacious, brilliant. He is undoubtedly someone who does not simply live in the past, nor is he content with the present—even as he respects tradition and the realities of the moment. His gaze is always fixed far ahead, driven by an almost obsessive idea: to represent his region through wines in which quality is pursued with meticulous attention to detail.
He is guided by his intuition and the conviction that technique and technology are tools to be used to achieve his envisioned goals—not monsters to be fought. Vineyard, winery, wine: a journey that requires experience, interpretive skill, and an extraordinary cultural and financial commitment.
Giuseppe Quintarelli’s Lecture
Zýmē means (in ancient Greek) “yeast,” a fundamental element of alcoholic fermentation and, symbolically, of the transformation of grapes into wine. The founding of the winery is the natural outcome of Celestino’s dream; throughout his life, he sought to understand and interpret the grape even before he set out to produce wine. Gaspari is now an integral part of the history of Valpolicella, in close contact with the great masters, where the lessons come from lived experience, hands-on work, and values that are only seemingly ancient or outdated: the land, the quality of raw materials, hard work, and mistakes seen as opportunities for growth.
His first work experiences were in the livestock sector, but the truly defining encounter was with Giuseppe Quintarelli. His direct contact with the great master of Valpolicella became a unique learning experience: knowledge of the terroirs, agronomic expertise, mastery of winemaking techniques, and the creation of unmistakable wines—a one-of-a-kind phenomenon not only in the regional wine scene but also nationally, if not globally.
But Celestino does not simply make that experience his own. Every stage of production must be broken down like a mathematical equation, understood in every step: what arises from empirical observation becomes the subject of scientific inquiry.
A wine cellar carved into the rock
The Zýmē Winery , in San Pietro in Cariano, is located inside an ancient sandstone quarry dating back to the 15th century, known as La Mattonara. It is an almost magical place: you venture into the winding passages of the rock, masterfully transformed into a winery whose charm must be experienced in person to be fully appreciated. The temperature, the history of the place, and the silence all become part of the wine’s aging process.
The historic building is complemented by a modern winery, built in a way that maintains harmony with the landscape. The old and the new coexist in the same space, just as tradition and innovation coexist in Celestino Gaspari’s philosophy.
Between Memory and Research
Zýmē operates along two philosophical approaches to wine. On the one hand, traditional wines, such as Valpolicella, Amarone, and Recioto: Celestino revives ancient techniques, tools, and knowledge and seeks to restore depth to these styles without sacrificing elegance, balance, and drinkability. On the other hand, there are the wines born of experimentation, in which he allows himself the freedom to experiment, rediscover forgotten grape varieties, observe natural mutations, explore new territories, and combine grape varieties and techniques.
The entire lineup stands out for its character. Each wine is interpreted in an original way, while maintaining a common thread with the Valpolicella tradition, sometimes going beyond it to seek out expressions preserved in the memories of those who have lived in this region. Some are true oenological gems: Harlequin and La Mattonara are produced only in vintages deemed worthy, with almost absolute respect for what nature provides, even accepting long waits.
The wines tasted
Suggested retail prices for 0.75-liter bottles, unless otherwise indicated.
Valpolicella Rêverie 2025 Zýmē
Score: 94/100
Estimated price: €15
Talk about the “revolution of tradition”: not a Valpolicella that resembles a light-bodied Amarone, full of body and power, but a return to a historic interpretation of the appellation, a goal Celestino has strongly pursued.
40% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 25% Rondinella, 5% Molinara, and Oseleta. Aged in stainless steel for about six months. Bright, luminous red, of medium intensity. The aromas are an explosion of small red berries, raspberry jelly, and black cherries, with a hint of spice and pleasant balsamic notes. On the palate, it displays great energy, thanks to its fresh acidity combined with a light, appealing body, low alcohol content, and exceptional drinkability. Delicious.
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2019 Zýmē
Score: 96/100
Approximate price: €110
40% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella, 5% Croatina, 5% Oseleta; dried for 4 months. Aged in large barrels for 5 years.
Intense and concentrated red color. The nose is broad and sophisticated, with notes of red fruit jam, pronounced spice, coffee, cocoa, carob, and sour cherries preserved in alcohol. On the palate, it displays great breadth and surprising freshness for this style; warm yet perfectly balanced between fine tannins and significant smoothness.
Veneto Rosso Syrah 2020 Zýmē
Score: 98/100
Approximate price: € 75
One of Celestino Gaspari’s dreams, which took shape in part through his travels to South Africa—where he discovered remarkable Syrah wines and winemaking techniques—as he sought to create his own personal interpretation of the verticality and complexity of the great Syrahs of Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie in the Rhône Valley.
100% Syrah from the Colli Berici, in the Lonigo area. The grapes rest in the fruit cellar for 20–30 days; maceration on the skins lasts about 40 days. This is followed by at least 48 months in new “white wine” barriques and one year in the bottle.
The color is a deep, intense red. The aromas are rich and sensual, meaty and blood-like, with distinct spicy notes and blackberry fruit. After aeration, notes of chocolate, pipe tobacco, and a flirtatious hint of pepper emerge. On the palate, it is smooth, with an electrifying tannic impact and supported by great length. Enveloping.
Provincia di Verona Oseleta 2016 Zýmē
Score: 95/100
Approximate price: €60
Oseleta is a historic grape variety from Valpolicella, whose name derives from “oselet” (little bird in the Venetian dialect), so called precisely because birds used to ravage the grape clusters, irresistibly drawn to the grapes’ very sweet flavor. Long neglected—and nearly abandoned—due to the difficulties of cultivation and its very low yield, it has been used in small percentages in local blends for the past few decades to enrich them with color and structure. In Celestino Gaspari, it has found a winemaker capable of recognizing its potential even when made as a single-varietal wine. The first bottles date back to 2001.
100% Oseleta. Aged for a long time in barriques (7–8 years), followed by at least one year in the bottle.
A very intense yet brilliant red. The aromas are fruity, with cherry, small red wild berries, and licorice standing out, followed by an alluring spiciness. On the palate, it has a full-bodied and powerful structure, with firm but never overpowering tannins. The finish is long and juicy.
Veneto Rosso Harlequin 2016 Zýmē
Score: 98/100
Estimated price: €390
It is one of the region’s cult wines created to showcase Valpolicella’s immense viticultural heritage, and a wine that is very dear to me, as I’ve followed its development since its inception in 1999. Produced only in exceptional vintages, in limited quantities, it stems from a visionary idea by Celestino.
Perhaps the true starting point of Zymè’s philosophy. A blend of at least 16 white grape varieties (Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, ) and red grape varieties (Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Teroldego, Croatina, Oseleta, Sangiovese, and Marzemino). The grapes are harvested by hand, and the selection of the clusters is meticulous. The varying ripening times extend the harvest over a period of 40 days; the grapes, as they are harvested, rest in the fruit cellar for varying lengths of time before being pressed together at the end of the harvest. This is followed by a total of 30 months of aging in new barriques and at least two years in the bottle.
The color is an intense red, almost impenetrable. The aromas are explosive, with notes of red fruit jellies, black cherries, and cherries preserved in alcohol, followed by cocoa, pipe tobacco, and humus. With age, the balsamic notes become intense and solemn. The palate is broad and powerful, with an extremely long finish.
Amarone Classico della Valpolicella Riserva La Mattonara 2011 Zýmē
Score: 99/100
Approximate price: €370
The name pays homage to the ancient sandstone quarry that houses the winery.
40% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 15% Rondinella, 10% Oseleta, and 5% Croatina and Molinara, selected from the oldest vineyards in the classic Negrar region. It is produced only in vintages considered exceptional. The grapes are dried for about three months, followed by crushing in January and maceration on the skins for at least two months. This is followed by about ten years in large barrels and Slavonian oak tonneaux, and at least one year in the bottle.
The sensory analysis is thrilling: a deep ruby color of great intensity. The complexity on the nose is impressive, with notes of roasted coffee, plum and cherry jam, graphite, and licorice. The palate is powerful, characterized by a warm, enveloping mouthfeel, first-rate tannins, and extraordinary fullness. The finish is remarkably long and persistent.
Recioto Classico della Valpolicella Amandorlato 2011 Zýmē
Score: 97/100
Approximate price: €110 per 0.500 bottle.
It stems from the idea of reviving a historic style of Recioto—now rare—in which the initial sweetness gives way to a more austere finish. A bittersweet character that evokes almonds and their aftertaste, hence the name.
The 2011 vintage is the first to be produced and is dedicated to Celestino’s mentor, Giuseppe Quintarelli, as noted on the label: “To my mentor…”. The 2016 vintage is currently available for purchase.
30% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, 5% Molinara, and 5% Croatina, all from the classic Negrar region. After the grapes are dried and a lengthy winemaking process, the wine ages for six years in 500-liter Slavonian oak barrels.
Deep garnet red, with brick-red highlights. The aromas evoke almonds, licorice, red fruit jams, forest floor, sweet cocoa, cinnamon, and nutmeg. On the palate, it is round, with a caressing attack that is never cloying; the flavor is not overly sweet, with a smooth progression, great balance, and excellent drinkability.
