Riccardo Viscardi participated in the interesting vertical tasting of Tenuta San Leonardo‘s Carmenère Vigneti delle Dolomiti Igt.
On a beautiful monsoon day in Rome, the terrace of Palazzo Taverna does not disappoint, offering exciting colors and lights; even the wind does not bother thanks to the wonderful hospitality of Anselmo and Ilaria Guerrieri Gonzaga, for us all personification of Saint Leonard. An unprecedented vertical for the company that of the Carmenère, a great insight of Anselmo’s when he returned to the company.
As he himself recalls, the gestation and genesis of this wine was not easy, and it was taken first and foremost from the already famous San Leonardo but had to be concealed from the sight of his father Charles who was not aware of the project. Keeping everything hidden was not easy, but Anselmo enlisted the cooperation of Luigino Tinelli, a key person for the company, a factotum of sorts.
The litmus test was the tasting of the first vintage, 2007, which was pulled in 1714 magnums, a number not accidental but reminiscent of the year the company was founded. Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga approved and thus the Carmenère di San Leonardo was born.
Carmenère is an ancient Bordeaux grape variety that almost disappeared in France after phylloxera, which arrived in San Leonardo as Cabernet Franc, a classic mistake by nurserymen. Similar situation as in Chile, where the presence of Carmenère is explained as an exchange with Merlot. Only around the 1980s did Professor Scienza and Dr. Tachis realize the misunderstanding.
The wine is produced only in the best vintages and is vinified in cement with macerations of about two weeks. It then spends 70% in barriques that are not only new while the rest matures in tonneaux. We were presented with the 2020, 2019, 2018, 2016, 2015, 2010 and the very rare 2007 vintages.
Vigneti delle Dolomiti Carmenère 2020
Score: 93/100
Average price in wine shop: € 75
100% Carmenère. Matures 70% in barrique and the rest in tonneau. Classic ruby. Cardamom, wild strawberries, smoky notes, spices on the nose. Broad texture with refined tannins, good elegant and balanced progression with a graceful but consistent finish.
Vigneti delle Dolomiti 2019
Score: 97/100
Average price in wine shop: € 75
100% Carmenère. Matures 70% in barrique and the rest in tonneau. Intense ruby. Intense nose on notes of red orange, black fruit, black cherries, spices, forest tones. Dense texture, excellent tannins with a tasty, enveloping, elegant and streamlined progression thanks to sapidity. Excellent finish very persistent but of infinite grace.
Vigneti delle DolomitiCarmenère 2018
Score: 93/100
Average price in wine shop: € 80
100% Carmenère. Matures 70% in barrique and the rest in tonneau. Intense ruby. Aromas of kirsch, light caramel, sour cherries and dark spices, smoky notes. Despite the vintage a wine of sunshine rather than light. Dense, enveloping, juicy texture with supporting tannins and excellent smoothness that lends elegance to the lingering, dense finish that embraces you.
Vigneti delle DolomitiCarmenère 2016
Score: 97/100
Average price in wine shop: € 90
100% Carmenère. Matures 70% in barrique and the rest in tonneau. Intense ruby. Intriguing nose with cherry, intense currant, a touch of graphite and forest . Intense, balanced texture, with resounding tannin for finesse and support on the sip. Good freshness on the palate, giving the progression breadth, verticality and plenty of length on the finish.
Vigneti delle Dolomiti Carmenère 2015
Score: 98/100
Average price in wine shop: € 100
100% Carmenère. Matures 70% in barrique and the rest in tonneau. Intense ruby. Blood orange, graphite oriental yellow spices and a hint of violets characterize the nose. Dense texture, elegant agile, well-crafted tannin that well supports the balanced fresh and snappy flavor progression. Excellent finish with integrity and great persistence. Youthful.
Vigneti delle Dolomiti Carmenère 2010
Score: 94/100
Out of Business
100% Carmenère. Matures 70% in barrique and the rest in tonneau. Dark red to the eye. Very balsamic and green with smoky and winter forest notes. Medium texture with slightly angular tannins and a nervous, austere progression. The finish is more relaxed on notes of eucalyptus. A cold and icy wine.
Vigneti delle Dolomiti Carmenère 2007
Score: 96/100
Out of business
100% Carmenère. Matures 70% in barrique and the rest in tonneau. Still bright ruby. Nose kirsch, small black fruits, floral notes and smoky nuances. Tightly textured with lively tannins well integrated in the savory, enveloping yet sinewy progression. Excellent dynamic intense and agile finish. Very persistent, with years ahead.
