A trip to Maremma in search of young and emerging companies: an essential selection told by our correspondent Fabio Cartei.
As usual., also this year, at the beginning of March, was held in the halls of the Granaio Lorenese di Spergolaia in Alberese (GR), the review “MareMMa the nature of wine“, now in its 7tha edition. Remember, the 3 M’s in the word Maremma are not a typo but identify the three appellations that insist on the territory:
It is, in fact, the most important showcase dedicated to Maremma labels, with over 110 producers present representing their respective protection consortia. The goal remains to promote the quality of the wines of a wide and diverse territory, increasingly attentive to care, planning and productive innovation.
The average level of wines tasted proved to be decidedly high. Below is a selection of up-and-coming or first-time companies that were particularly interesting.
New realities to watch out for, let’s start with Gagiablu
Interesting the Classical Method XVIII-Eighteenth 2021 from only Sangiovese grapes of the winery Gagiablu, just pink and lively in fruit, fresh, soft and creamy, with a savory, winking finish, (€ 30 – 90/100).
>Also pleasing is the Maremma Vermentino Superiore 2024: just golden with a citrusy nose of ripe fruits and Mediterranean herbs, well-articulated sip and savory finish (€ 18 – 91/100).
>Closing the tastings is the Maremma Ciliegiolo 2025: captivating chromaticity and lots of fruit, soft and fragrant with a drink that conquers and pampers, (€ 16 – 92/100).
Il Quinto estate: precision and pleasantness
Excellent proposals from Tenuta Il Quinto, near Magliano in Tuscany. The Maremma Vermentino I Biondi 2025 is well balanced between fruit, orange blossom and bergamot, the drink is soft and saline with a hint of acidity that makes it dart in the mouth (€ 16 – 92/100).
Also very good is the Morellino di Scansano Ficaie 2024, Sangiovese with a small balance of Syrah. Currant, blueberry and wilted rose enrich the bouquet; juicy and smooth taste, agile and well contrasted on the finish (€ 15 – 92/100).
S. Lucia estate: elegance and territory
Bravo to the S. Lucia Estate., in the vicinity of Fonteblanda, where the Maremma Ansonica Costa dell’Argentario Eroica 2023. From terraced vineyards with dry-stone walls above the village of Porto Ercole. Soft golden yellow with a nose of ripe fruit, honey and chamomile; the palate is smooth and well-made, savory and mineral notes give it a touch of vanity (€ 28 – 92/100).
Excellent then, the tasting of the Morellino A Luciano 2024. Sangiovese with a small percentage of Alicante. Bright ruby, red and black fruits dominate, excellent and complex matter and tannic texture, in the finish it is of an unquestionable pleasantness (€ 24 – 94/100).
Olfaction teasing, tonic, solid in the mouth of ripe fruit and savory spice the Morellino Tore del Moro 2022, a Sangiovese all muscle, contrast and personality (€ 22 – 93/100).
Poggio ai Quadri and Fontino: small realities, big results
The wines of Poggio ai Quadri, a small operation on the slopes of Massa Marittima, also deserve a mention. Pleasant, drinkable white fruit and Mediterranean herbs the Vermentino Montecristo 2024 (€ 16 – 90/100).
>Also of good workmanship is the Maremma Sangiovese 2022: puffs of plum, black cherry and berries, the mouth is meaty, spicy and well-calibrated, the finish silky and elegant (€ 28 – 92/100). Worth mentioning is the Maremma Ciliegiolo 2022. Floral, fruity of ripe cherry and white pepper, nice drinkability with elegant and pleasantly fresh finish (€ 22 – 90/100).
Also near Massa Marittima is Tenuta del Fontino, a biodynamic estate whose Maremma Casteldiruto organic 2023 from Sangiovese. Gives us very pleasant taste sensations with its intense aromas of ripe red fruits and spices. Good extractive texture: juicy and well contrasted, it closes docile silky with elegant tannins (€ 24 – 93/100).
A growing Maremma
This concludes our pleasant and convincing selection, which confirms the steady growth of the wine Maremma, now increasingly dynamic and qualitatively reliable.
Appointment for the next edition. Raise your glasses.
