Focus, between today and tomorrow, on two great Sicilian white grape varieties: Catarratto and Grillo. Two much-loved and widespread grape varieties that, thanks to new knowledge, are growing rapidly in quality. Riccardo Viscardi‘s reflections.
Sicilia en Primeur is a beautiful event that allows people to get to know little-known places and wineries in Trinacria. Then in the final tastings you can do personal focuses on grape varieties or areas of interest.
For the past few years, I have believed that the most interesting Sicilian phenomenon involves two white, native and long-forgotten grape varieties. One was considered the ugly duckling, or if you prefer the unfortunate Donald Duck, the other suffered the decline of Marsala of which it was the key component. I am referring to the Catarratto, for which the “ingenious” proposal to rename it Lucido is underway, and to the Cricket, the fruit of the ingenuity and genius of Baron Antonio Mendola who crossed Zibibbo and Catarratto and invented it around 1870. So the two grape varieties are also related but that is another story thick with mysteries.
The Catarratto
Catarratto is also the most widely planted grape variety in Sicily, often snubbed if not for its production capabilities, which was rarely bottled as a single varietal. So let’s start with Catarratto and continuing with the comic metaphor, we could say that from Donald Duck he turned into Donald Duck. But let us go step by step. It was a misunderstood grape variety and therefore badly made.
Being typical of western Sicily (although there is also some on Mount Etna), it is in the Monreale area, below Palermo, that it has found a perfect habitat and also producers who have pampered, understood and exalted it in its hidden characteristics. Hidden because only science and knowledge makes it possible to extract them and let the pearl inside the ugly shell shine. In this area (Doc Monreale), which has elected it as the prince white grape variety, it is exalted. High acidities never isolated, good sunny but fresh olfactory notes and a great sensitivity to the soil of origin means that versions can be varied but united by a genius loci important.
Among the great performers, we count three in this area and a third just outside: Alessandro di Camporeale with the version from the Mandranova hill, in the production a part in tonneau; Feudo Disisa with Lu Bancu, steel only, Gaetano Di Carlo Viticoltore with Lù, also steel only, and then Castellucci Miano with Shiarà, but the winery is located in the Valledolmo doc in Sclafani county (almost at 1,000 meters), again only steel. Wonderful the difference between the four wines but exhilarating the character that unites them, the expression of the grape variety that is declined according to the place with Lu Bancu and Mandranova (same doc Monreale but different soils), the Lù, just further southwest, all slightly sunnier than Shiarà.
Monreale Catarratto Lu Bancu 2024 Feudo Disisa
Score: 96/100
Average price in wine shop: € 23,00
100% polished Catarratto. Steel 8 months on the lees. Bright greenish yellow. Intense and sharp nose, tropical fruit, medlar, floral, Mediterranean herbs. Sharp, flavorful, intense and sunny texture, an elegant and exhaustive progression with a balanced, savory and very persistent finish.
Terre Siciliane Catarratto Lù 2023 Gaetano Di Carlo Viticoltore
Score: 96/100
Average price in wine shop: € 20,00
100% Catarratto. Only steel on the lees for 10 months. Intense, bright straw yellow. Crisp, varietal aromas, with notes of yellow citrus, wild flowers, alfalfa and slight hints of exotic fruit and flint. Taut, snappy, agile, juicy, fresh, elegant and delightfully drinkable palate. Subtle and persistent finish.
Monreale Bianco Catarratto Vigna di Mandranova 2022 Alessandro di Camporeale
Score: 95/100
Average price in wine shop: € 20,00
100% Catarratto. 12 months in steel, small part in tonneau. Straw yellow. Citrusy nose and a hint of smoke, notes of fresh almond, flowers and wild herbs. Very fresh, vertical and taut. Significant acid shoulder. Salt and lemon. Very long savoriness.
Monreale Bianco di Mortilli 2023 Case Alte
Score: 94/100
Average price in wine shop: € 22,00
100% Catarratto. Steel and 7 hl tonneau for 12 months. Straw yellow with greenish highlights. Complex with lime, lemon leaves, lemongrass, aromatic notes, hints of lavender, sage, rosemary. Dense, citrusy, good acid vein, citrusy tail.
Sicily Valledolmo Contea di Sclafani Bianco Riserva Shiarà 2023 Castellucci Miano
Score: 95/100
Average price in wine shop: € 35,00
100% Catarratto. Steel on the lees for 18 months. Straw yellow with greenish highlights. Elegant nose of fresh apple, white flowers, cedar zest, lime and wild herbs. Snappy sip, with important acidity animating it from start to finish, just the right texture, balance and a very long finish.
