Riccardo Viscardi ‘s point continues on the two best-known Sicilian grape varieties: yesterday we looked at Catarratto, today it is the turn of Grillo.
We could say father (or mother) and son, since Grillo is a grape variety created “by design” in the late 19th century with a cross between Catarratto and Zibibbo. There are those who say that in fact such a crossbreed had already been created naturally in the vineyards, while those who are convinced that the credit belongs entirely to Baron Antonio Mendola. In the end, it matters little. What matters is that the grape variety is there, is well established in Sicily and offers very good wines.
The Modern Grillo
Grillo has had a different path than the Catarratto we saw yesterday and its revolution starts from further back thanks to the happy insights of two winemakers, one from Sicily, Tonino Guzzo, and one from Umbria, Riccardo Cotarella, who applied techniques and knowledge from studies at the University of Bordeaux on Sauvignon. This was possible because they sensed, independently of each other, that Grillo has aromatic precursors from the same odor family as Sauvignon. We just had to enhance them in the vineyard, extract them without spoiling them in winemaking and stabilize them in the wine. Not an easy path evidently.
The two wines that launched this new interpretation of the grape variety were the Gorghi Tondi Kheirè of 2006 followed by the Baglio del Cristo di Campobello Lalùci since 2009. This brought more attention to the grape variety, which also grew in public acclaim. Unfortunately, the new approach was quite complex, and those who tried to copy had many unpleasant surprises with mediocre wines. Nevertheless, the first reaction in the face of the growing interest in the grape variety was to Planting more vineyards and not consolidating quality creating greater demand. Speculative maneuvering that led to a depreciation of grapes.
But the Grillo story is not over; this new knowledge has also given those who do not totally follow it the chance to have an extra color on the resulting wine palette, giving more freedom to peruse soils and estate styles. To date the beauty of the Grillo is its pliability giving us a glimpse of a wonderful, multifaceted, almost chameleon-like grape variety. A nice pathway to knowledge can be as follows:
2023 Florio Wine
Score: 95/100
Average price in wine shop: € 20,00
The archetype for which Mendola invented Grillo. Today we can say the Big Bang of natural Italian wine (orange), prosaically the traditional base of pre-British Marsala.
100% Grillo. 12 months in cement. Light amber in color. Aromas between dried fruit, hints of candied fruit, Mediterranean scrub, pralines. Taste elegant, salty and sunny, dry and enveloping with a great finish.
Sicilia Grillo Mozia Whitaker Foundation 2024 Tasca d’Almerita
Score: 94/100
Average price in wine shop: € 25,00
From the Phoenician colony on the island of Mozia, in the Stagnone of Marsala, a “marine” Grillo.
100% Grillo. Steel 8 months on the lees. Straw yellow. Sharp nose on Mediterranean scrub, broom, orange blossom, almond and yellow plum. Savory and ample mouthfeel with dense texture and an almost tannic touch that accompanies a sunny, sumptuous drink.
Sicilia Grillo Riserva Zahara 2023 Casa Grazia
Score: 96/100
Average price in wine shop: € 25,00
From Gela, Caltanissetta, a young, dynamic winery with an approach to Grillo that here includes a light passage in wood for part of the product.
100% Grillo. 16 months in steel on the lees. Straw yellow with greenish highlights. Intriguing nose of orange blossom, peach, subtle wild herbs, a citrus nod, sage and a pleasant menthol note. A sunny, relaxed texture of excellent freshness and great drinkability with a lingering, enveloping finish.
Sicilia Timpa Cricket 2023 Feudo Montoni
Score: 94/100
Average price in wine shop: € 13,50
From Cammarata, Agrigento, but in altitude we have Grillo with an agile and snappy profile.
100% Grillo. 6 months in cement on noble lees. Straw yellow with greenish highlights. Intense, lemon, white peach, medlar, yellow flowers, herbs, winter forest. Light, streamlined, sinewy, savory and snappy texture; flavorful, straight finish.
Sicilia Grillo LaLùci 2024 Baglio del Cristo di Campobello
Score: 96/100
Average price in wine shop: € 19,00
From Campobello di Licata, Agrigento, and blinding terrain comes a new age reference.
100% Grillo. Steel on the lees 6 months. Pale straw yellow with green highlights. Cedar, passion fruit, medlar, Mediterranean scrub and wild fennel. Balanced, savory, fresh texture with the agile and constructive progression of great class. Compelling finish for persistence and verticality.
