There is a lot of talk about dealcoholated wines (or, more correctly, dealcoholised), and as of this year it is possible to produce them in Italy as well. What could this mean for the wine sector? Let’s take a look at Daniele Cernilli‘s analysis.
Since last January, it has also been possible in Italy to produce partially or totally dealcoholised wines (as is correct to say, with respect to the adjective that is coming into common use “dealcolatized”). For some this is good news, for others it is bad news. So let’s try to see how things stand.
Meanwhile, per European regulation 2021/2117, “dealcoholized” wines can be totally, with an alcohol content of up to 0.5°, or partially, from 0.5° to 9° total. The process takes place, starting with a conventional wine, and subjecting it to vacuum distillation or reverse osmosis, thus using decidedly invasive procedures.
The pros
De-alcoholised wines are produced in many countries around the world and respond to a market demand By those who want to avoid ingesting alcohol. For health reasons, for religious reasons, for dietary issues.
Recent stances by the WHO and the European Union aimed at limiting and discourage the consumption of alcoholic beverages go precisely in that direction, and those wines seem to be a definite response.
In addition, they obtained the status of “wines.” they can be called that and carry that diction on the label, that of “dealcolized wine” precisely.
The distinction with regular wines also comes through the fact that for now the appellation wines Docg, Doc and Igt (or DOP and IGP, as you prefer) cannot be dealcolized. So if there is a specification that protects the origin, they cannot be produced.
De-alcoholised wines can be a viable alternative to carbonated beverages, which are not exactly good for your health.
Cons
Certainly to dealcoholise a wine it is not necessary to produce grapes of who knows what quality, they will be industrial productions based on quantity, with highly productive vineyards and grapes that are not necessarily very sugary.
I machinery that will have to be purchased cost a lot and only large companies will be able to afford them. For small and medium-sized producers, dealcoholisation seems an impractical process.
The possibility of large multinational beverage companies entering this sector are not only theoretical and the risks to traditional vitienology and artisanal are not peregrine.
Non-alcoholic beverages already exist, such as excellent apple juices, which are vaguely reminiscent of wine. It is not clear why we need to dealcoholize that obtained from fermenting grapes.
If they pass the wine labeling proposals supported by some parties in the EU, with the phrase “seriously harms health,” there will be a risk of seeing wine export and promotion supports, such as CMOs and psr, cancelled. If wine is harmful, it cannot be financed by public entities, in short. It is obvious that this will not affect dealcolized wines, however.
De-alcoholising also means distorting wines of origin
Alcohol conveys aromas and is a very important component of the organoleptic balance of wines.
The tradition, culture, and literature related to wine has never predicted the absence of alcohol in it. The Dionysian aspect is an integral part of these themes.
Last consideration
With dealcoholisation you get dealcoholised wine and alcohol. The latter is state monopoly and must comply with very strict regulation and taxation. Including being stored in pre-purposed warehouses, sealed and monitored by the Guardia di Finanza. A complex thing, in short.
And now the floor is yours.
