There are white wines from Campania that play “on the back foot.” Wines that have body, depth and often a perceptible tannic texture, characteristics that make them very similar to a red wine. Antonella Amodio introduces us to them.

Campania viticulture is a mosaic of soils and microclimates of great complexity. From the volcanic sands of Vesuvius and the Phlegraean Fields to the limestone-clay soils of Irpinia, from the tuffaceous hills of Sannio to the marine exposures of the Coast, Cilento and the islands, each area imprints a distinctive pedo-climatic stamp. It is in this diversity that the structured, Campanian white wines capable of defying traditional categories and impose themselves even in the cold months.

That fine line between whites and reds

No longer just summer drinking: Campania’s “black soul” whites are now among the most popular in winter and surpass the old cliché of white/summer, red/winter. They have body, depth and often a perceptible tannic texture, qualities that make them perfect for important dishes and higher serving temperatures than conventional whites. Around 12-14°C they reveal more complexity, change their face and In blind tasting, the line between white and red becomes thin and can even mislead.

Their “red wine-like” behavior stems not only from winemaking practices such as pellicular macerations or controlled oxidations, but mainly from the nature of Campania’s indigenous grape varieties, endowed with a phenolic structure and matter unusual for white wines. Thus, we are talking not about wines from red grapes vinified in white, a theme already explored on other occasions, but about whites in red clothes, authentic, obtained from white grapes, nevertheless capable of behaving on the palate with the intensity and strength typical of reds. These are whites that age well, gaining complexity and developing notes of honey, hydrocarbons and dried fruit over time, and the maturity enhances their depth.

Campania’s four white grapes wearing red

Vitigno autoctono campano: uva coda di volpe — Grappolo di Coda di Volpe

Vitigno autoctono campano uva Greco Bianco — Grappolo di Greco Bianco

Vitigno autoctono campano uva Roviello Bianco o Grecomusc — Grappolo di Roviello Bianco o Grecomusc

Vitigno autoctono campano: uva Coda di Pecora — Grappolo di Coda di Pecora

Prominent among the white grape varieties that are dressed in red is the Coda di Volpe, named for the elongated shape of the cluster. It gives wines of great flavor density and fleshy matter, making it the perfect interpreter of whites “in red clothes.” Among the organoleptic characteristics it highlights moderate acidity and full body. In vinification with maceration on the skins it reveals a delicate tannic texture.

Greco, one of the “reddest” whites in Italy. This grape is known for its phenolic strength and tactile sensation that, at higher serving temperatures, accentuates the tannic component, often creating misunderstanding in blind tastings. Structured, savory, with noticeable tannin, it has incredible aging potential.

Roviello Bianco, a very rare grape variety also called Grecomusc. Almost extinct until a few decades ago, it offers wines of surprising depth and grip, with tannic grip and long persistence. It is one of the most authentic and identifying expressions of the “new” Campania of white. It has integrated acidity and notes of Mediterranean scrubland that are distinctively present.

Coda di Pecora, an Alto Casertano’s identity grape, reveals an important personality and a surprising tannic presence for a white. Voted for aging, it is a very multifaceted wine in aroma and taste: its hallmark is vibrant acidity combined with a slightly drying tactile sensation.

Irpinia Coda di Volpe 2018 Perillo

Score: 94/100
Approximate price in wine shop: €20.00

100% Coda di volpe. Stainless steel. Straw yellow with golden hues. Aromas of peanut butter, iodine, hydrocarbons and roots. Salty, broad with acid shoulder still well in place. Long.

Irpinia Coda di Volpe 2022 Tenuta del Meriggio

Score: 93/100
Approximate price in wine shop: €15.00

100% Coda di Volpe. Stainless steel. Straw yellow, intense. Aromas of chamomile, peach and sage. The palate is broad, savory, astringent and persistent, with a nutty return.

Campania Greco Fuori Limite Le Vecchie Vigne 2021 Vadiaperti Traerte

Score: 93/100
Approximate price in wine shop: €30.00

100% Greco. Stainless steel. Golden straw yellow. Nose of peppermint, basil, white pepper and smoky note. The palate is relaxed, fresh and balanced. The finish is long and persistent.