Tastings

Samaroli: selection, craftsmanship and emotion

Whisky Samaroli e formaggio

Samaroli is a cult name in the world of spirits: rare selections, recognizable style and an “emotional” approach to quality. At a Milan lunch Livia Belardelli got to know her vision through Daniele Liberati, Global Brand Manager. In the tasting: two whiskies and three rums, among elegance, peat, surprises and “talking” casks.

Milan, Osteria delle Coppelle, interior day. Six diners, five bottles on the table. Magnetic labels that look like works of art rather than just wrappers. The old-fashioned font that whispers a name – Samaroli – And it already evokes a journey. A story that starts from the mists of the Scotland, among silent barrels elevated by time, and continues southward, sailing privateer, to the warm, bright waters of the Caribbean.
A story that spans oceans, vintages, traditions, and today comes to life at a Milanese luncheon. Captain of the crew is Daniele Liberati, Global Brand Manager of Samaroli, who tells us about the brand’s “artistic” and “perfectly imperfect” vision.

A unique case in the world of distilled spirits

In a spirits market increasingly polarized between large productions and niche micro-bottlings, Samaroli continues to represent a unique case: an Italian brand capable of influencing the culture of whiskey and rum thanks to a philosophy that privileges the maniacal choice of barrels and the desire to propose only what really excites its selectors.

Stylistic consistency, emotional selection and continuous research have been its cornerstones since its inception in 1968, when Silvano Samaroli founded his company, becoming a pioneer in the world of grain spirits. It was a revolution for the time, when whiskey was mostly a standardized blend and rum a blending alcohol, certainly not a meditation alcohol. And it is probably this absolute fidelity to an idea of taste – never bent to fashion, never seduced by the demands of the market – combined with an unconventional vision and a deeply creative sensibility, to have made Silvano Samaroli a true conductor Of the distillate. Able to give voice to the individual instrument, when the cask deserved to stand out on its own, or to harmonize multiple casks in a blend becoming melody: coherent, unique, able to get straight to the soul.

A rare continuity

Today Samaroli is a landmark craft brand in the world of collectible whiskies and rums. After the merger with Casa Bleve, the baton has passed to Antonio Bleve, current Master Blender, who having worked closely with Samaroli for a long time, continues and cherishes the original vision: Manic selection, palate as a compass, emotion as the final criterion. A rare continuity, keeping the spirit of the founder alive while dialoguing with the present.

Whiskies in tasting:

Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky - Distilled in 2014Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky – Distilled in 2014

From Glenallachie Distillery – Approximate price: € 175

It starts with a whiskey with slight orange tones, full and oily in the glass. A texture, says Daniele, maintained thanks to the decision not to cold filter. A practice usually used to eliminate haze but here, it is now clear to me, a slight opalescence is not a defect. It becomes a crafted detail, nuance that adds depth. Then come notes of fruit, fig and plum, hints of chocolate and spice. On the palate it is warm and voluptuous, with a subtle finish of roasted cereal, cocoa and endless returns of dried fruit.

Perhaps I like it because it is a whiskey that “winks at wine,” matured in Barolo barrels. Barley and grapes, the Highlands like the Langhe, where distilleries flourish like vineyards, one at every turn, each an expression of its own terroir.

Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky Distilled In 2018Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky Distilled In 2018

From Caol Ila Distillery – Approximate price: € 175

An island within an island for a whisky with more orange tones and obvious aromas of peat, smoke, candied citrus and balsamic sensations. The island mold is also that of the containers in which it rests, which belonged to Madeira wine and its Portuguese origin. Malt and cedarwood notes accompany a darting acid-savory shoulder in the mouth and a long lingering smoky finish.

Rum tastings:

SPQR Blended Rum SamaroliSPQR Blended Rum

Approximate price: € 120

Amber color and a versatile and balanced style-ecumenical-was born with the idea of conquering diverse palates. The name refers to imperial Rome but at the same time stands for Selected Premium Quality Rum. Ethereal and glazed notes, crystal ball (that plastic smell that immediately makes one childhood, at least mine), spices and roasting. In the mouth the finish is smooth with notes of dried fruit, chocolate and coffee.

Barbados Raphsody Blended Rum 2016 Barbados Raphsody Blended Rum 2016

Approximate price: € 185

Elegant rather than muscular, with a bright amber color. Some would call it vaguely pandering but in fact it is balance and elegance. Dried fruits, candied citrus, sweet spices, flowers and hints of pastry. This is followed by woody sensations and spicy notes that are never excessive, expressing a refined profile of great precision and, as already mentioned, subtle balance.

Martinique Single Origin Rum 2017 Single CaskMartinique Single Origin Rum 2017 Single Cask

Approximate price: € 145

Destabilizing is definitely the first adjective hatched from my mind after the first sip. An original rum that may not please but does not leave you indifferent. Abandoned the levity of the previous one here the scents roll between earth and humus. Green and vegetal notes, ginger and coriander powder, licorice stick and distinct nuances of wood and bark. A bit like a famous juicer, it was born more to stimulate conversations than for the mere pleasure of drinking it.

In the end, the feeling remains that Samaroli bottles not just spirits, but fragments of time: barrels that have traveled, paused, breathed, waited for the right moment to speak. Tasting after tasting, a definite red thread emerges – selection, identity, consistency – and also the courage not to please everyone. Because these whiskies and rums do not chase fashion, nor do they domesticate character: they bring it whole into the glass, with all its roughness and nuances. And as lunch closes and the bottles return mute, one certainty remains upon us: in this world of noise and speed, Samaroli continues to whisper. And that is precisely why he makes himself heard.

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