At One Belvedere Tuscany, near Castellina in Chianti, the cuisine is entirely vegetarian, from breakfast through dinner. Chef Federico Viti creates imaginative dishes with some Asian influences, while also showcasing the estate’s own produce. It’s a culinary discovery that can win over even a self-proclaimed meat-lover, set amid vegetable gardens, vineyards, and panoramic views of the hills.
I have lived and worked in Tuscany for three years and have returned there countless times. And I can say with certainty that it is a region with a very strong tradition of meat-eating: with its high-quality meats and exquisite cured meats, you’re truly spoiled for choice.
That’s why, when we went to stay near Castellina in Chianti, at One Belvedere Tuscany—a very elegant agriturismo with an infinity pool—I was surprised to discover that the entire menu, from breakfast to main meals, is always and exclusively vegetarian, featuring eggs and cheese. Never meat or fish, not even upon request. If desired, vegan dishes can be requested.
From the Vegetable Garden to the Vineyard
The eggs come from the the farm’s chicken coop, as does the honey from their beehives and the vegetables from their vegetable garden. The wines are also produced on the estate: the ten hectares of vineyards, all in the process of converting to organic farming, yield two Chianti Classico wines and five other IGT wines, including whites, rosés, and reds. In my opinion, they’re all well-made, the result of the hard work of dedicated people. We’ll see how they fare in the coming years.
So here I am with my first review of a vegetarian restaurant! Oh, let me be clear: I’m not one of those people who starts complaining if there’s no meat on my plate. But I am a happy meat-eater.
Federico Viti in the kitchen, Antonietta Iengo in the dining room
The property is foreign-owned. The Chef Federico Viti was actually born just a few hundred meters from here, while Antonietta Iengo, his life partner and the true queen of the dining room, was born a little further away. Together, they form a passionate, close-knit, friendly, and knowledgeable couple.
For our dinner, we gave the chef free rein, and he rewarded our trust with a highly imaginative cuisine, featuring some Eastern influences—colorful, flavorful, tantalizing, and above all, delicious.
A dinner of grilled meats, spices, and vegetables
We started with two appetizers: peppers grilled and marinated in homemade miso, crescenza cheese, olives, fried capers, and sweet-and-sour peppers; chickpea falafel and eggplant babaganoush, with mint and basil, yogurt sauce, and parsley.
We continued with a tortello with Camporbiano blue cheese, a beetroot variation, arugula pesto, and salted almonds. For the main course, a egg from the farm’s own chicken coop, cooked at a low temperature, with roasted tomatoes, pecorino foam, basil, and crispy bread.
We finished with a dessert encore. The first was Arabic Coffee Memory, combines milk chocolate mousse, dark chocolate cream, coffee ice cream, spices, and caramelized hazelnuts. The second is a fig-leaf panna cotta, served with lemon cream ice cream, figs poached in wine, jam, and a Sichuan pepper crumble.
I have deliberately gone into such detail in describing these dishes to convey the variety and precision of each individual dish. This attention to detail is also evident in the way the vegetables are cooked, often left al dente to preserve a pleasant crunch.
The estate’s wines in an enchanting setting
We paired the meal with three wines from the winery, all made from 100% Sangiovese:
- Toscana Rosato N 2024;
- Chianti Classico 2024;
- Chianti Classico Tenuta de’ Carfini 2024.
Keep in mind, however, that the wine list includes wines from other wineries in the surrounding area.
Meals are served in a beautiful dining room with large windows, and—when the weather permits—outdoors as well. The entire building has been recently renovated; the interiors are meticulously designed down to the smallest detail, and the 360-degree view of the hills is enchanting. What can I say—it’s truly a wonderful discovery!
