Ristòria Pepe Nero on Lake Bolsena

Yes, I know, it is strange: to have known a good chef very well for over twenty years and never to have tried his cuisine. But we met in what was then a wonderful “food and wine gym,” that is, the Gambero Rosso Forum, where, with Salvo and so many others who then experienced this world as protagonists, we had started An effervescent, inspiring and unique community.

Then both Salvo and I went our separate ways and still we would hear each other and meet in this little old world. But never had I been able to go to his place to eat. Until July. Accomplice to a trip to Civitella d’Agliano where, for DoctorWine, I had been invited to follow a two-day event dedicated to Grechetto wines, I succeeded! And a strange coincidence meant that a few days before the Michelin Guide, in its online version, had included the Ristòria Pepe Nero Among the noteworthy restaurants. The future will tell if more awards will come.

The Pepe Nero Ristòria

The venue is very beautiful, all in light shades and lots of glass surfaces. In winter you eat in a beautiful indoor room, but in warm weather you are pampered in a wooden veranda that makes you feel like you are eating with your feet in the lake water.

There is an a la carte menu and some tasting menus, all seafood and something lake-based, with some land-based contaminations. Raw materials of the highest quality, creative flair and sure hand result in very beautiful, colorful, flavorful and delicious dishes. We opted for the 6-course menu, chef’s choice, which ended up being eight!

We began with Rolling southward, an outstanding appetizer of raw shrimp, date puree, provolone milk and oregano. Then the very good Sea and Smoke, with seared scallops, grilled red bell pepper sauce and pork popcorn. Then Absolute Marinara, that is, a first course of fresh cavatelli made with egg whites and semolina, topped with an amazing mussels marinara sauce and black lemon powder. Finally, here we are at the Barbecued Fish, which was nothing more than a very fresh amberjack fillet seasoned with a Tuscia salmoriglio and a side of fresh herbs, also from Tuscia. We then concluded with Land of Tuscia, a fantastic and creative dessert that was also beautiful to look at.

Of course, I have not mentioned all the dishes we ate, but only those that made me jump on my chair, the others were merely very good….

Wine list and service

Evolving wine list but since the restaurant has only been open for a few months it is to be considered less than good. I chose a very good Fiano from Ciro Picariello, at a moving price. In addition, Salvo takes great pride in the Kombucha that they prepare with local raw materials. I tried one as an aperitif and it was really very pleasant, not very carbonated and not aggressive, unlike many others that they throw at us from time to time.

Very good service, attentive, young, captained by a young man in his early twenties, whom I had had the opportunity to evaluate last winter when I was a Judge in the “Emerging Sala” Competition.

Finally, I cannot fail to point out the price factor: our 6-course menu was only 80 euros. A price for solemn commendation and final applause!