Barolo winery Fontanafredda is launching a new 8-label collection that aims to tell the story of the diversity of the Langhe wine landscape, while also giving the word to the area’s most pop grapes. For wines that are good and inclusive, in all aspects, as Flavia Rendina recounts.
The evolution process put in place by young Andrea Farinetti a Fontanafredda, a historic winery in the Langhe region with 120 hectares of certified organic vineyards. After the “Vineyard Forest” manifesto launched last year with the aim of preserving the biodiversity of the Langhe’s UNESCO heritage site, the producer has come up with another one: A collection of democratic, inclusive and identity-driven wines.
“Fini Wines“, this is the name of the collection of 8 labels that is intended to be a way to tell the story of the richness and diversity of the Langhe wine landscape, while also giving the floor to the lesser-used grapes of the area, now dominated by King Nebbiolo. “With Fini Wines, we are in search of the nuance that individual terroir can give us – said Farinetti – so not an idea of perfection, but of uniqueness: Marilyn Monroe’s mole. We often try to tag ourselves into predetermined categories, but the world of wine is much more complex “.
There is no set rule
A free way of thinking about wine, outside the preconceptions and categorizations to which the oenological universe today relies, from a technical-productive point of view as well, open to alternative and combined vinifications to enhance the character of each vineyard. “The beauty of our craft is that there is no rule – stated. Giorgio Lavagna, Fontanafredda oenologist – so everything can change depending on our choices, the soils and the vintage“.
A plea for freedom and inclusivity in wine, but also for the attention, which must be everyone’s, to making a better product “for us, for those who drink it and for the planet – Farinetti stressed. That is why we have decided to evoke an ancient classification, relaunching the concept of Vini Fini, which already in the past represented great wines but more democratic“.
Vinventions’ “Certificate of Plastic Action“
It gives him reason Gabriele Gorelli, Italy’s first Master of Wine and Vinventions Brand Ambassador, who awarded Fontanafredda the “Certificate of Plastic Action” for having recycled 1,069 kg of plastic with its choice of Nomacorc recycled plastic stoppers.
“That of “fine wines” is a historical concept, dating back to the late 19th century, when “fine and luxury wines” were written in the cards – recounted Gorelli -. This is a fundamental distinction, because “fine” wine is not necessarily a collectible wine, with hyperbolic prices, but it is definitely a wine in which the details are taken care of, in which there is communicativeness between territory and goblet. È a smart wine in the most positive sense of the word, because, and here I quote Andrea, it has been applied that treatment that in Piedmont is reserved almost only for Nebbiolo, even to lesser known and less tested varieties on this road. A choice that acquires even more meaning when placed in a range of eight territories and varieties, because so many strings of the same harp “.
The collection
“Pure texture of thin thickness” is the claim, apparently an oxymoron, that defines the collection of eight wines (for the time being, because a rosé is already in the works), a perfect synthesis of Piedmont winemaking: Roero Arneis Docg Val di Tana; Colli Tortonesi Doc Derthona; Gavi del Comune di Gavi Docg Cortem; Langhe Doc La Lepre; Barbera d’Alba Superiore Doc Papagena; Nebbiolo d’Alba Doc Marne Brune Grappolo Intero; Langhe Chardonnay Doc Ampelio and Moscato d’Asti Docg Moncucco.
Andrea Farinetti presented them with the support of the aforementioned oenologist Giorgio Lavagna and Fontanafredda agronomist Alberto Grasso, at a presentation event held in June at Langosteria Bistrot, in Milan, during which they were each paired (except Cortem, not presented) with a course.
Trio of tartare for Arneis, Timorasso and Dolcetto
A trio of tartare opened the dances: amberjack with jalapeño sauce paired with the Roero Arneis Val di Tana 2023; snapper with sweet and sour giardiniera for the Derthona Timorasso 2023 and bluefin tuna with Pantelleria sauce for the Langhe La Lepre 2024. “Wines that are the result of a very long project, started in 2017, which led to three versions very different from the usual version of the grape variety, starting with the choice of vineyards” explained agronomist Grasso.
“The result is an Arneis less classic, vinified whole cluster, interspersing it with part of the crushed grapes, for a slower fermentation that guarantees more complex aromas and greater longevity – continued winemaker Lavagna. The Timorasso, on the other hand, was fermented steel and passed for 5 percent in terracotta amphora, to give a small opening to the aromas that are usually very slow to manifest themselves, because it is a grape that needs time in reduction“.
Third protagonist, the Dolcetto, a grape beloved of the Piedmontese but increasingly extirpated to make room for Nebbiolo, which in this case comes from a vineyard in Diano d’Alba “an area of substance and depth – explained Lavagna – but which, thanks to a split vinification, half of which is whole berry with subsequent passage in large barrels, and the other, destemmed pigia, which rests in cement, acquires a crisp fruit character that it does not normally have“.
Tuna ventresca with Barbera and Sicilian-style sea bream with Nebbiolo
Grilled tuna belly with pak choi and chili sauce accompanied the Barbera d’Alba Superiore Papagena 2022, followed by the Mediterranean sea bream Sicilian style with potato chips and choked escarole paired with the Nebbiolo Marne Brune 2023: both a successful confirmation of the pairing of red wines and fish.
“A mistreated grape variety, the Barbera – stated Grasso – here it grows on the limestone-rich soils of Serralunga d’Alba and has been aged in wood. The Nebbiolo instead – he continued – comes from a vineyard in the commune of Alba, halfway between Langa and Roero, from mixed marl and sand soils. A hot area, where Nebbiolo is vigorous and powerful, but produces little “. It is made 50% vinified with whole clusters alternating with layers of crushed grapes and aged in large oak barrels, except for a 10% that ages in earthenware amphora, in favor of uncontested drinkability.
Calamarata with redfish for Chardonnay
As is the custom at Langosteria, the first course was served at the end, so Andrea also decided to subvert the classic order of wine service, accompanying the calamarata with redfish, basil and chili crumble with the Chardonnay Ampelio 2023.
“A red wine disguised as white, which has always been produced in the company, but over the years we decided to undergo an “overhaul,” changing the grape pool – Farinetti explains -. We bought a vineyard called Monsignore at 620 meters above sea level on the “sea of Castino.” An area of chalk and limestone where Chardonnay is made for Alta Langa, but which we decided to make still, vinifying 30% of it in new wood and leaving it on its lees for a long time “.
With Muscat, passion fruit mousse
Sweet closure with passion fruit mousse and raspberry sauce with the Moscato Moncucco 2023, “the most bistrated wine in Piedmont – said Andrea – but still remains the most planted grape in the region, where it has suffered over the years from the problem of lack of capital invested in the land. Instead, it occupies an area that has great potential and craftsmanship experience, which today could finally experience a renaissance thanks to the demand for low-alcohol wines, for which it is naturally suited, perhaps managing to contain the sugar concentration by working well on exposures, altitudes and ripening “.
Last curiosity: the labels – all in an elegant creamy white that also echoes the capsule – were conceived and designed in the first draft precisely by Andrea Farinetti, expressing a symbolism that would recall in a simple and immediate way the peculiarities of the micro-zone enclosed in each bottle.
Finally, all wines have a retail price between 15 and 20 euros., which makes them, truly, a democratic quality drink.
Roero Arneis Val di Tana 2023 Fontanafredda
Score: 89
Price on the manufacturer’s online “Shop”: € 15,40
100% Arneis. Steel, on fine lees. Bright gold with greenish nuances. Notes of ripe yellow fruit accompanied by fresh hazelnut and walnut husk. Rich and consistent mouthfeel, already balanced though still traversed by a pawing acidity indicative of youth. Consistent nutty fruit returns.
Colli Tortonesi Derthona 2023 Fontanafredda
Score: 92
Price on the manufacturer’s online “Shop”: € 18,40
100% Timorasso. 10 months on fine lees, steel and 5% in terracotta amphora. Bright gold. Opens on the nose with a delicate smokiness of toasted bread, followed by fragrant notes of broom flowers, white fruit and grapefruit. On the sip it reveals excellent fullness, depth and a still pungent freshness. The finish is long and consistent, even round, for a broad-shouldered wine that will do.
Langhe Chardonnay Ampelio 2023 Fontanafredda
Score: 92
Price on the manufacturer’s online “Shop”: € 20,40
100% Chardonnay. Large cask and steel, on the lees. Light gold. The nose is delicate and shows still youthful hints of yellow citrus and acacia flowers, among just more complex nuances of hazelnut and fig leaf. The mouth, on the other hand, is already made enjoyable by an engaging butteriness, giving a sip that is consistent in its returns and progressive. To be waited for to appreciate it to the fullest.
Langhe La Lepre 2024 Fontanafredda
Score: 87
Price on the manufacturer’s online “Shop”: € 15
100% Dolcetto. 6 months between large barrel and cement. Transparent ruby. Open and very fruity nose of fresh cherry, with delicate nuances of flowers and spices. Taste is consistent, very agile and fresh, with pleasantly gruff tannins giving crispness to the drink. Fruity finish.
Barbera d’Alba Superiore Papagena 2022 Fontanafredda
Score: 91
Price on the manufacturer’s online “Shop”: € 19,40
100% Barbera. Large oak barrels. Dark, purplish ruby, like the nose, which reveals depths of ripe black fruit, cinchona and spice. In the mouth engaging juiciness and mouthwatering fruit dynamism, with savory finish. An enjoyable wine of great coherence and harmony.
Nebbiolo d’Alba Marne Brune 2023 Fontanafredda
Score: 93
Price on the manufacturer’s online “Shop”: € 20,40
100% Nebbiolo. 8 months in large barrel and 10% in terracotta amphora. Light ruby. Fragrant and crisp nose, varietal in features of violet, black cherry and cocoa. On the palate, an engaging freshness pulls the drink, giving juiciness and savoriness in the direction of a fruity finish disciplined by elegant tannin. Young, but already very enjoyable.
Moscato d’Asti Moncucco 2023 Fontanafredda
Score: 88
Price on the manufacturer’s online “Shop”: € 15
100% Muscat. Steel on the lees for 10 months. Gold to the eye. The nose is intense and very sharp in typical tones of citrus, white peach, lime blossom, cedarine and sage. The sip is graceful, slender, sweet but enlivened by excellent acidity and citrusy returns.
