Ruffino: a Chianti Classico released with the 1927 vintage that made the history of the appellation. It became Gran Selezione with the disciplinary change, retained the diction Riserva in its name (an exemption for historicity) and accounts for 40 percent of the total mass of the Gran Selezioni.
Today we replay a historic vertical of the Ruffino’s Riserva Ducale Oro covering five decades, from the 1970s to the present day, which took place years ago in Rome, at the beautiful Leon’s Place Hotel in Via XX Settembre. The tasting was conducted by our DoctorWine, Daniele Cernilli, assisted by Ruffino’s oenologist Gabriele Tacconi and moderated by President Sandro Sartor.
Ruffino dates the beginning of its history 1877, today it counts almost 600 hectares of vineyards and reaches a total of 17,000,000 bottles produced, a colossus and a landmark of Italian vitienology. Amazing is the Very high quality that you can maintain across the board up to the cutting edge of the Golden Ducal Reserve. How do you reach these quality levels, how do you maintain this consistency over time?
Identity first
We find the answer written in Latin, in the logo: Semper Idem. Identity carried forward over the centuries with professionalism and dedication, with an eye always on the future. The ability to innovate, to be all-round forerunners, always attentive to the needs of the market. Even the adaptation of the blend and the percentages of international grape varieties emphasizes the attentive eye to consumer taste that has determined the constant success over the years of Ruffino’s wines. Absolute novelty is that from 2024 Ruffino will be completely organic. “Innovation has always been our hallmark, ” says Sandro Sartor.
The tasting
But let’s come to the tasting. The Riserva Ducale is first produced in 1927, becomes Riserva Ducale Oro in 1947 and is one of the few wines that allows for a journey through time in both Chianti Classico, the evolution of the appellation and the history of Ruffino. To be clear, Sassicaia was first produced in 1968. We could call it the Dom Perignon of Chianti Classico, and today the Riserva Ducale Oro represents 40 percent of the Gran Selezione appellation.
We started with 1977 and moved on to 1982 and ’88 entering the next decade with 1996. The new millennium saw the 2005, 2015 and 2018.
To these vintages presented in the vertical mentioned above, we added the last three vintages produced, 2019, 2020 and 2021, which we reviewed in the last three editions of the The Essential Guide to Italian Wines.
Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro 1977
Score: 96/100
Auction price.
75% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Malvasia, 5% Colorino. One year in large 80 hl Slavonian oak barrels followed by further aging in vitrified cement vats. Garnet color with brick nail. Tertiary aromas of walnut husk, dried fruit and dried flowers. The palate has distinct acidity and an evanescent reminder of tannin.
Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro 1982
Score: 95/100
Auction price.
75% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Malvasia, 5% Colorino. One year in large 80 hl Slavonian oak barrels followed by further aging in vitrified cement vats. Dark, bright garnet color. Aromas of cherry jam, prune, walnut husk, date, hints of spice, tamarind and herbs. The palate has less acidity than 1977 and more tannin.
Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro 1988
Score: 90/100
Auction price.
90% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo, 3% Malvasia. Matures one year in large 80 hl Slavonian oak barrels. Dark garnet color. Tertiary aromas on the nose, walnut, dried fruit, pot-pourri. The palate has tight tannins but retains good softness.
Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro 1996
Score: 94/100
Approximate price: € 120
90% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino, Canaiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Matures 24 months in 60-hl oak barrels and 6 months in barriques. Intense ruby color with garnet rim. Aromas of fruit and spices, hints of cumin. Nice dynamic balance on the palate between acidity and tannin. Warmth in the finish and nice liveliness.
Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro 2005
Score: 93/100
Approximate price: € 150
80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It matures about 36 months in steel and oak barrels. Deep and intense ruby color. The nose has notes of berries, blackberry above all, hints of sweet spices. In the mouth it has beautiful acidity, is vertical and dynamic and has balanced tannins.
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Riserva Ducale Oro 2015
Score: 95/100
Approximate price: € 32
85% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot, 5% Colorino. Matures for 36 months, 12 of which are in large oak barrels and 12 in second-passage barriques and tonneaux. Very intense and vivid ruby. Enveloping olfactory profile, black cherry and blood orange. Taste relaxed and pleasant, elegant and very drinkable, with a saline note running through the flavor profile. Tannin very well balanced with acidity. powerful and elegant.
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Riserva Ducale Oro 2018
Score: 95/100
Approximate price: € 42
83% Sangiovese, 12% Merlot, 5% Colorino. Ages 12 months in cement tanks, 12 months in large Slavonian oak barrels and 12 months in second-passage barriques. Very intense and lively garnet ruby. Complex, enveloping and sharp, for a very typical olfactory profile. Hints of black cherry, fresh almond, sweet spices and maraschino cherry. Palate saline, warm, composed, relaxed, pleasant and elegant.
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Riserva Ducale Oro 2019
Score: 96/100
Approximate price: € 35
80% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot, 5% Colorino, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Three years in barrels of different sizes and cement. Very intense and concentrated garnet ruby. Complex, enveloping, ethereal and crisp. Hints of dark cherry, black cherry, fresh almond, sweet spices and maraschino cherries. Palate saline, warm, composed, relaxed, pleasant and elegant With perfectly integrated tannins.
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Riserva Ducale Oro 2020
Score: 95/100
Approximate price: € 35
80% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot, 5% Colorino, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Three years in barrels of different sizes and cement. Very winey and intense garnet ruby. Ethereal, very typical and sharp on the nose with notes of dark cherry, blood orange and dark tobacco. Full and taut on the palate, composed, warm and with dense tannins. Long finish.
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Riserva Ducale Oro 2021
Score: 96/100
Approximate price: € 35
85% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot, 5% Colorino. Cement and barrels of different sizes for 3 years. Intense, bright garnet ruby. Enveloping, crisp, with notes of cherry, sweet spices, plums and dark tobacco. Full and taut on the palate, saline, warm, with dense, diffuse tannins. Finish of excellent persistence.
