Meursault’s Premier Crus tell the most refined side of an appellation celebrated for opulence and structure. Complex soils, tiny parcels of land and a new stylistic sensibility have transformed the profile of the wines in recent decades, which are now sleeker and more elegant while remaining generous. A journey between Premier Cru and grand lieu-dits, guided by the hands of vignerons who have rewritten their identity. Vinogodi tells us about it.
Complex terroir, diverse wines
In Meursault, the vines take root in limestone marls, between Collovian limestones and Argovian marls. The geological mosaic is so articulated that it generates profoundly different wines even with the same vineyard, often regardless of the producer (much to the point of inducing l suicide for some -maybe distracted- readers of DoctorWine)-
Repetita iuvant (i.e., it’s worth remembering): in the Premier Cru, the name of the vineyard always follows that of the appellation, becoming an indispensable identity element.
From power to balance
Meursault has always attracted the passionate lover of the imposing structure of perhaps unique whites. For a long time has been synonymous with monumental, buttery, spicy, honeyed almost excessive whites. An ode to how much fatness could be imagined to affect-just talking about it-the cholesterolemia of the poor drinker, who would approach the glass only to drink a structured white wine in peace.
Over the past two decades, however, market taste and the technical evolution of new generations of vignerons have led to a more measured and elegant, with less structured wines. The structure still remains broad and generous – Mersalut does not deny himself – but today it dialogues with freshness, precision and depth, in a’ very interesting interaction with refined balances.
Meursault Les Terres Blanches 2020 Pierre Morey
Score: 94/100
Average price: 130 €
Tiny lieu-dit (less than 0.4 ha), didactic in expression and by the masterful hand of Pierre Morey.
100% Chardonnay. About 12 months in oak fût, mostly used, followed by short tank rest Relatively deep yellow with some green flashes. Aromas of exotic fruit (papaya, passion fruit) supported by a firm mineral imprint. Ample, solid, consistent mouthfeel.
Meursault Clos Richemont Monopole 1er Cru 2019 Domaine Henri Boillot
Score: 95/100
Average price: 220 €
Small Monopole from this excellent producer/négociant.
100% Chardonnay. 12 months in barrique (small proportion of new wood). Pale golden yellow, intact. Complex aromas of alpine hay, flowers and wild herbs, with yellow fruit in the background. Mouth warm and structured, supported by salinity and excellent persistence.
Meursault Blagny 1er Cru 2018 Thierry et Pascale Matrot
Score: 94/100
Average price: 150 €
100% Chardonnay. 12 months in used oak fût, sur lies. Very clear, bright golden yellow. Delicate, floral and balsamic aromas, far from any excess: the feminine hand of Adèle and Pascale (Thierry’s daughters) has given an imprint of whispers and chiaroscuro. In the mouth, it is not slender, but surprises with balance and measure, almost against the grain for the area.
Meursault Charmes 1er Cru 2020 Domaine Michelot
Score: 95/100
Average price: 200 €
100% Chardonnay. About 12 months in barrique (moderate use of new wood). Light gold and bright. Nose more floral than fruity: gerberas, jasmine, whiffs of helichrysum. Mouth fine and deep, never weighed down by adipose redundancy.
Among the elected cru, excellent interpretation of this producer who is making his way among the great qualitative realities of the area.
Meursault Luchets 2015 Domaine Roulot
Score: 96/100
Average price: 500 €
Microscopic plot (0.30 ha), which in the hands of this producer (ranking Vinogodi semidei) expresses outstanding results.
100% Chardonnay. 12 months in barrique and about 6 months in tank, minimal bâtonnage. Medium gold. Aromas of Altamura bread crust, ripe Golden apple, white peach and broom. Palate of remarkable structure, soft as velvet and taut as fine silk. Surprises with outsized length.
Meursault Les Genevrières 1er Cru 2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey (PYCM)
Score: 96/100
Average price: 550 €
100% Chardonnay. 12 months in barrique (very measured new wood). Impressive to the eye is the brightness of the deep gold color. Caressing and refined aromas of wild flowers, enriched by ripe fruit, powdery and sweet spices. Opulent but perfectly balanced mouthfeel.
Meursault Les Tillets 2003 Domaine Roulot
Score: 96/100
Average price: 500 €
Another lieu dits of this family of wine artists, where son Jean Marc has steadfastly succeeded in keeping the myth created by his father Guy
100% Chardonnay. 12 months in barrique and 6 months in tank. Intense but lively gold. Nose of uncommon mineral strength, brightened by ripe yellow and tropical fruit, melons, peaches and mangoes. Glyceric, round, velvety mouthfeel of epic persistence.
Wine symbolic of Roulot’s longevity.
Meursault Goutte d’Or 1er Cru 2007 Domaine des Comtes Lafon
Score: 96/100
Average price: 480 €
Small parcel of 40 ares within the district that, in the hands of one of the greatest bianchistas on the planet, achieves levels of excellence like few.
100% Chardonnay. 12-18 months in barrique, with calibrated share of new wood. Impressive is the bold, transparent gold color, looking freshly bottled. The nose an exuberant display of strength and complexity, broad, varied, with a flirtatious return of medicinal herbs. Powerful mouthfeel, with a red-wine structure … in white, still with plenty of energy and epic roundness.
Meursault Les Rougeots 2007 Coche-Dury
Score: 97/100
Average price: 1.400 €
Perhaps, and not only in personal opinion, the greatest craftsman of white wines in the world (along with Madame Leflaive).
100% Chardonnay. About 18 months in barrique (historic and wise use of oak). Pale gold with still green reflections almost unreal. Nose of almost painful intensity: gunpowder, flint, spices and herbs like rosemary, then almond notes. Mouth taut, very deep, with relevant structure and legendary persistence.
