Fine dining crisis doesn’t touch Ineo restaurant in Rome

So much of so-called fine dining is made up of rituals, often an end in themselves, almost as if they were self-aggrandizing. Of true Cathedrals of Taste, where dishes and service run in unison like Swiss watches, there are some, but there are far fewer of them than you might think, at least in my opinion. And when you have the luck, the opportunity, to witness the celebration of the rite, you are lucky.

Whether for economic reasons or because of a certain weariness in the face of certain trite repetitiveness in creating menus through the usual must-have ingredients, fine dining is in deep crisis. Sure, the emblazoned restaurants in many of the world’s capitals, of the crowded tourist destinations, are often full. But what does full mean? Overall, how many daily place settings are we talking about?

In the face of millions of tourists who travel the world, as well as businessmen and representatives of institutions, filling their rooms is certainly not difficult, especially if they have been good at communicating or belong to large hotel groups, where the problem of costs and profits is less pressing.

The real problems lie with those even slightly on the fringes of this stream of people. Their trite rituals are not conducive to the entry of new patrons, who often prefer a gastronomic proposition that is more in keeping with the local area, warmer hospitality and more affordable prices.

Six-handed dinner at Ineo’s

This long preamble was necessary because a few days ago I was invited by Ineo to try a six-handed dinner, that is, performed by three chefs from three different Italian restaurants.

It was a wonderful dinner! For the dishes, for the lightness of the service, and for the atmosphere that was created among us guests, thanks in part to the clever decision to put all 25 of us at the same table.

Read on, I try to explain this wonderful alchemy.

The three chefs have been friends for years, having simultaneously collaborated in the kitchen of the three-starred Chef Heinz Beck. After this common experience they embarked on their own careers and are now leading their respective kitchen brigades. They have come a long way: two of them have 1 Michelin Star, the third has just been included in the Guide and only the near future will tell us where he will arrive (personally I see him already ready for the leap in rating).

Novelties of the highest level

Why did we have such a good time? Why the three chefs’ six delicious dishes, two of each, were mouthwatering, colorful, easy to understand (which is in no way meant to say that they were trivial) and, on top of everything, they were not reissues, revisits of things already seen and revised a thousand times. They were news, tasty novelties: a breath of fresh air, even in the choice of the main ingredients of each dish. Not to mention the mouthwatering and lively “Chefs’ Welcome,” consisting of five bites, among which was a sphere of very Roman Chicken and Peppers, created by Resident Chef Heros De Agostinis.

Even the chefs themselves, when they came to the room to present their dish, were quick, fresh and not self-celebrating their genius. I appreciated that so much.

Of course the good wine pairings had been previously arranged by the house sommelier, but having had a look at the cellar I can safely say that there is very good drinking to be had. Also very good is the service, efficient and friendly, in a very elegant, finely decorated hall.

Even talking to those who were sitting next to me, they really enjoyed the whole evening, mainly because no one was taking themselves very seriously, and you could feel that in the air. They were three friends, three professionals, who tried to make themselves known in a non-stuffy, non-celebratory way. Goal achieved with flying colors.

The three star chefs:

• Heros De Agostinis, host, Ineo Restaurant
• Gianluca Renzi, Cannavacciuolo starred restaurant Le Cattedrali nel Monferrato
• Delfo Schiaffino, La Speranzina starred restaurant on the shores of Lake Garda