In the heart of old Milan, Ristorante La Brisa combines signature cuisine, an intimate atmosphere, and a truly unusual history. The owner, Antonio “Tojo” Facciolo, is the son of the legendary illustrator of Diabolik and shares a family connection that inspired the comic’s famous characters, while the menu blends tradition, creativity, and a deep commitment to quality ingredients.
A story that begins with the comic strips of Diabolik
If you happen to go for lunch or dinner at Brisa in Milan, near Corso Magenta, you’ll be welcomed by Tojo—whose real name is Antonio Facciolo—the owner of this charming restaurant with an intimate and elegant atmosphere in the heart of old Milan, right next to the archaeological excavations of an ancient Roman imperial palace.
If you feel like you recognize Tojo at first glance, perhaps you’re simply an avid reader of the well-known comic book *Diabolik*.
Tojo’s father, Enzo, was the artist behind Diabolik from the very beginning, way back in 1967. According to Tojo, his father, while drawing at home, often drew inspiration from his mother’s movements—which we see reflected in Eva Kant—and from Tojo’s eyes, which we recognize in Diabolik’s gaze.
Tojo’s Challenge and the Rebirth of Brisa
Tojo is studying political science, and to pay for his education and be able to marry his Eva, Francisca – his partner in life and work for over twenty-five years -began working in the restaurant industry as a server and bartender, and traces of that experience can still be seen in Brisa’s aperitif menu, which features an interesting selection of cocktails alongside a tempting array of tapas, and a great aperitif experience is guaranteed.
After four years working at the restaurant owned by boxer Duilio Loi – the Trattoria San Vittore – Tojo stepped into the ring to face his biggest challenge yet. In the early 2000s, he took over Brisa, a restaurant that had been in business since the 1980s and was formerly known as Rosina. In the peaceful inner courtyard, on the gravel next to the centuries-old linden trees, there are still bocce courts that evoke the atmosphere of Milan’s past. Dinner is served on an elegant veranda. Tojo and Francisca move among the tables with the charm and grace of simplicity, making us feel right at home. There is a palpable sense of respect and discretion toward the customers. In fact, for this very reason, Brisa’s VIP guests are never paraded on social media as “weapons” to boost customer numbers -and so I, too, will maintain complete discretion on the matter.
What to Eat at Brisa
The cuisine is Italian with strong Mediterranean influences – especially Spanish -and creative fusion touches from chef Valerio Varotto. A 47-year-old native of Padua. Ducasse is his inspiration, which is reflected in his use of fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients and in his emphasis on bringing out the natural flavors of those ingredients. Every dish on the menu is the result of a collaboration between Tojo and Valerio. Their signature dish is the Spanish cochinillo suckling pig, cooked at 65 degrees for twenty hours. Deboned, placed on a baking sheet with the rind, and pressed for twelve hours. Another perennial favorite is the bulgur and quinoa with a selection of vegetables, Gaeta olives, and arugula pesto.
The appetizers were fantastic, especially the Cantabrian anchovies, wild mugnoli, citron, caper powder, and egg yolk sauce. The smoked sardines, rye bread, cooked and raw endive, quartirolo cheese, and datterini tomato sauce. Onion stuffed with goat’s milk gorgonzola, sweet potato purée, radicchio, chestnuts, dates, and rice chips. Balance and the enhancement of flavors also shine through in the first course : cauliflower soup with purple shrimp, green cabbage, pak choi, and peanuts.
For the main course, the veal sirloin with artichokes, rutabaga purée, herbed butter, and almond breadcrumbs is prepared to perfection. With a Scandinavian twist thanks to the use of rutabaga, a “hybrid” root vegetable created by crossing wild cabbage and turnip. The dessert, hazelnut cookies and meringue with mint crystals, is a perfect finishing touch to the meal.
Wine List for Enthusiasts
Tojo recommends the wines he has personally selected, favoring Italian wines but also offering a selection of international whites and reds. As well as over twenty wines by the glass. As he shares stories at the table, his great passion for this wonderful world shines through. A passion that will make true enthusiasts and those curious about even small-scale productions feel right at home.
I tasted an old 2006 Collina del Milanese IGT Banino by Antonio Panigada—a blend of Riesling, Sauvignon, and Chardonnay—which surprised me with how well it has aged.
As a nutritionist—but also a foodie—I know how important it is for our well-being to pay attention to the quality of ingredients and where they come from. When I dine at La Brisa, I always sleep soundly, and certainly Tojo, Francisca, and Valerio —“no one can stop them” (as Diabolik would say).
