Like a white man singing the blues, Ca’ Rugate’s Soave Classico Superiore Bucciato 2022 is a highly original wine, reminiscent of old-fashioned whites, but with great technical expertise.
My personal experience with white wines fermented “on the skins” starts from memories of a Marino that was vinified this way since 1974. It did Paola Di Mauro in Colle Picchioni, near Frattocchie, at the beginning of the Alban Hills, twenty kilometers southeast of Rome. It was the last of the archaic, really ancient wines and the first of a modern way, today we would say 2 or 4.0, to interpret that world.
At that time all white people were a little orange, because there were no horizontal presses, and everything was done with presses, which fatally resulted in contact with the skins. Then you would vape, and you had to somehow interpret how and what you could achieve. Well, the Marino of Picchioni Hill was really remarkable. Savory, full-bodied, even a little tannic. Today it would send many fans of so-called “natural” wines into raptures, perhaps because it was ante litteram. Then many things changed.
However, I recently tasted a wine that reminded me of those times. It cannot be called “orange,” perhaps it is “gold” in every sense of the word, It is the Soave Classico Superiore Bucciato 2022 from Ca’ Rugate. Truly a most original wine. Old gold color, with scents of medlar and a little apricot, and with a saline, warm and very persistent flavor. I cooked myself some spaghettoni cacio e pepe and it looked great. A beautiful white man singing the blues, such as Joe Cocker. It costs money, but it is worth it.
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