Sauvignon is a wine enjoyed by consumers around the world, perhaps because its aromas are unmistakable and varied.
There are few wines loved and hated, thus divisive, like the various Sauvignons around the world. Meanwhile, let’s see what it is all about. Sauvignon Blanc is a grape variety of Bordeaux origin. Crossing with Cabernet Franc it gave rise to Cabernet Sauvignon, according to studies done at the University of Davis, California.
So in France
A Bordeaux, especially in the Graves and Entre Deux Mers areas, is almost always vinified with a dash of Semillon, and often matured for a few months in barrels. This sometimes results in wines of excellent structure, such as Domaine de Chevalier, Haut Brion Blanc, Chateau Carbonnieux. In these cases the characteristics of the varietal, which, like all “Atlantic” varieties contains pyrazines and has capacity for thiol formation and mercaptans in fermentation, are more nuanced and less “vegetal.”
In the French areas of Sancerre and Pouilly Sur Loire (where Pouilly Fumé comes from), the thiol notes are more evident and manifest themselves with slightly sulfurous and only just vegetal hints, all supported by excellent acidity. Wines such as the late Didier Dagenau’s Silex, but also Baron de L, were and still are very famous.
…and in Austria
In Styria, Austrian region, producers such as Tement, Gross, Polz, came up with complex, multifaceted Sauvignons with some hints of elderberry and nettle. In short, for the great experts these would be the wines from Sauvignon grapes to consider.
As you can see, what is in question is the somewhat vegetal character, herbaceous, with hints even of cat’s pee, “pyrazinic” and somewhat “mercaptanic,” which are even considered real defects, and a sign of rusticity.
In the New World
Too bad, however, that for the past couple of decades the favor of a considerable part of the international market also favors something else. In New Zealand, in Marlborough, in particular, there are Sauvignons with clear exotic fruit aromas, notable acid freshness and sometimes small residual sugar, which have won many consumers, especially in Britain and the U.S., but not only.
On this style, then, Australian, Chilean, South African and Californian producers have done similar things. Some have also been inspired by a more Bordeaux style, but these are fairly isolated cases.
What about us?
Well, we are as often happens in the middle of the ford. There are all kinds, especially in the Northeast, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Veneto, Trentino and Alto Adige, with a few examples in the Parma Hills and Tuscany as well.
Friuli Venezia Giulia
Manufacturers such as Venica, Vie di Romans, Volpe Pasini, Butussi, Tiare, Villa Russiz, Russiz Superiore, to give examples, have offered very interesting interpretations of Sauvignon in Friuli. With different styles of winemaking. Venica with the wood-aged, more Bordeaux-like Ronco delle Mele, Vie di Romans more Loire, Butussi with some New Zealand inspiration. Varietal, recognizable, sometimes a bit vegetal, and this sparks controversy.
Alto Adige
Same situation in South Tyrol, with Colterenzio and its Lafoa, but also The Wine Selection of San Michele Appiano rather “Bordeaux-like.” Very Loire Gumphof, especially with the Reinassance, while I find the Quarz from Terlan and the Mantele from Nals-Margreid. Anche qui ne cito solo alcuni a mo’ di esempio, senza la pretesa di aver esaurito l’argomento.
The point remains the same. Is Sauvignon a great grape variety from which great wines can be made? In my opinion, yes. Of course, the excess of vegetal notes, especially “pyrazinic” notes that make it recognized even by non-experts, are not the height of elegance and should be as much as possible managed intelligently.
But listening to consumers, who often find Sauvignons particularly enjoyable, is equally important. Lest “serious” critics become too detached from the general taste and therefore increasingly estranged from it.
