A vertical tasting of Tenuta Stefano Graidi Terre di Serrapetrona Robbione, declined in nine vintages, confirms the longevity of this varietal. Francesca Granelli‘s word.
On the occasion of the 20 years of the Serrapetrona Doc appellation., we had the opportunity to participate in a unique tasting: a vertical tasting of Robbione, the iconic pure Vernaccia Nera of the Terre di Serrapetrona winery. Nine vintages to tell the story of the evolution of an unconventional wine, a sensory and cultural journey among the nuances of an identity vine, capable of surprising for its depth, freshness and longevity.
In the heart of the Marche Apennines, in Serrapetrona, viticulture is intertwined with the slow rhythm of nature. Wrapped among forests, olive trees and streams, stretches the Tenuta Stefano Graidi Terre di Serrapetrona: 66 hectares of unspoiled landscape, where the vineyard, 21 hectares of which are divided into seven plots, grows at an average altitude of 700 meters above sea level, following the curves of the terrain and preserving intact the original biodiversity.
A visit to the Tenuta Stefano Graidi
A visit to Stefano Graidi’s winery took us on a journey of discovery through the territory of Terre di Serrapetrona, which has chosen, right from its name, to devote its work almost entirely to a single grape variety: the Vernaccia Nera, queen of Serrapetrona. A strong and consistent identity, resulting in 17 hectares planted almost exclusively to this variety, an undisputed symbol of the area. The steep slopes of the vineyards impose a manual approach for most of the work, allowing careful selection in the vineyard and the arrival in the winery of healthy grapes, without the need for invasive oenological corrections. Underlying the project is a precise vision: the Respect for terroir, grape variety and vintage., pursued through organic viticulture that finds fertile ground precisely in the natural conditions of Serrapetrona, where constant wind reduces the risk of disease and allows minimal intervention.
History
The history of this wine is closely linked to that of the winery, which from the very beginning has chosen to offer Vernaccia Nera in a dry still version, in contrast to the local tradition, which is mainly linked to sparkling or sweet expressions. Thus Robbione was born, the result of a vinification that combines dried grapes – in a percentage never lower than 60% and varying according to the vintage – with a part of fresh grapes. A A wine of great expressive power, which finds its balance in the tannic structure and softness conferred by the withering and the alcohol component.
The vintages tasted were 2005, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2015, 2016 and, finally, 2017. What defined the aromatic nuances and the different “grips” in the mouth were not so much the individual climatic trends-although relevant, as shown by more mature vintages such as 2009 and 2012-but rather the weather and the style of winemaking.
The tastings
Two vintages in particular highlighted Robbione’s evolutionary potential on the one hand and its surprising versatility on the other. The 2010, born in a regular and balanced vintage, expressed itself with a more subtle but refined nose: rosehips, rhubarb cream, oriental spices, sandalwood. The sip is fruity and pulpy, supported by muscular but refined tannins, with a velvety texture and balsamic finish.
La 2016 Instead, it showed the more contemporary face of Robbione: a modern, sleek, balanced drink, with a lively freshness and a more agile tannic texture. A version that is already enjoyable today, but promises interesting evolutions over time.
It also stylistically follows the 2016 2017, which takes up its more streamlined and balanced approach, but with a softer and more enveloping mouthfeel, accomplice to the warmer vintage. An already relaxed Robbione, with a rounded profile, which nevertheless retains a good rhythm and pleasant tension.
Also noteworthy is the 2013, which compared to older vintages showed a more harmonious evolution, standing out for its depth and definition. Suggestions of Mediterranean scrub and graphite emerge on the nose, traits that tell of its complexity and underscore its vocation for aging.
La 2005, finally, was an interesting plunge into the past: a Robbione that has crossed time with dignity and consistency.
TO READ THE WINE DESCRIPTIONS, WITH SCORE AND AVERAGE SHELF PRICE, CLICK ON THE TABS BELOW.
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