A small presentation outside the box reveals an interesting project: a classic method from pure Bellone, long aging on yeasts and an identity to be verified. We are around Latina, where a little-known reality like Cantina Santa Maria tries to have its say in the world of bubbles.
An invitation that intrigues
Among the many invitations arriving in the editorial office and turned over to me, the one from Cantina Santa Maria caught my attention for two specific reasons: a completely unknown winery and, above all, a metodo classico bubbly from pure Bellone grapes, with a claimed aging of no less than 70 months on the lees.
Enough to carve out a few hours and go see for yourself.
An out-of-the-box presentation
The meeting was held at Rough, wine shop with a modern kitchen concept, around a single table shared by about ten people, including the owners. As the only known face, that of a staff member of a well-known news agency. An informal, almost domestic format, but no less interesting.
On tasting the NOVECENTO60 – Classic Method Extra Brut (actually zero dosage), offered in three vintages: 2018, 2019 and 2020. Only the 2018 is currently on the market; the others served to understand the evolution of the project.
The project: bellone and long rest on the lees
Talking with one of the company’s four partners, Emanuele Fantinato, it turned out that the 2018 rested up to 70 months on the lees, while subsequent vintages should stop at 60. But never say never, in winemaking as is often the case, final decisions are made as we go along.
As we said, the wine comes from Bellone in purity, grown together with other estate varieties (Syrah, Merlot, Malvasia Puntinata and Trebbiano) on about 50 hectares in total, a significant part of which – 35 hectares – is contributed by local vintners. We are 10 kilometers from the center of Latina, where this classic method probably represents a productive unicum. (Another thing is the “progenitor” of the type, Carpineti’s Kius Brut, which is also produced by Bellone in the same province, but inland, in Cori.)
Total company production is around 170,000 bottles, with about 7,000 dedicated to this label.
In the glass
The wine has a fine perlage and a fairly intense hay yellow color. The nose has distinct citrus notes of fresh grass and white flowers, accompanied by hints of bread crust. In the mouth, from the determined manner, is straight, with some tension and a decent structure, supported by good persistence. A profile that focuses more on verticality than roundness.
In wine shops you will find it at about 25 euros.
To be reviewed at leisure
As the tastings for the next edition of the Essential Guide to the Wines of Italy, it will be interesting to return to this wine-and perhaps to the company’s entire range-for a more in-depth evaluation.
For now, a concrete curiosity remains: an out-of-area, out-of-schedule classic method, which deserves a second taste.
