One family, nine hectares planted with vines and a precise agricultural vision: Tripolaia tells of a concrete Bolgheri, respectful of the land and increasingly convincing results. Fabio Cartei takes us on a tour of the winery and its wines.
Tripolaia, today, is the result of a business and family evolution that takes its first steps and roots as early as the 1950s, when the family Persico leaves Mirabella Eclana in the province of Avellino to move to Bolgheri, driven by the search for wealth and abundance due to the generous soils. Is acquired the farm Osteria Vecchia, then refreshments, rooms and post station. The location is in the Bolgheri plain, with a neighbor of excellence as Guado al Tasso.
In the beginning, cultivation is promiscuous: mainly vegetables, but also olive trees and “doubles” of vines (two rows with olive trees in between) for family sustenance. As time goes by, vineyards increase and the sale of grapes and wine begins. Thus begins to take shape a precise, increasingly defined and measured project of search for method and constant innovation.
From peasant roots to a modern and rigorous Bolgheri
Since 2021, the company has been led by Pino Persico together with his daughters Sara and Francesca.
The entrance to the estate is of the important and scenic kind: a long avenue of cypress trees in double rows leads to the winery, surrounded by vineyards of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah and Vermentino in full force and exuberance, given the period. Nine hectares planted with vines are cared for in a precise and rigorous manner as if they were gardens, with mechanical inter-row tillage for weed control and soil aeration.
The cellar on the ground floor, spacious, essential but functional, reflects the winery philosophy: cleanliness, precision and concreteness. The same goes for the barrique cellar on the floor below. For “no-frills” winemaking.
Let’s learn more about the wines:
Bolgheri Vermentino Chiarì 2025
Score: 91/100
Average price: € 17
100% Vermentino. Only steel for a few months.
Light golden straw-yellow and bright. Fresh aromas of white fruit, floral of broom, citrus and Mediterranean herbs. In the mouth it is pleasant, fruity, dynamic almost savory. Excellent finish supported by good acidity.
Dedicated to Pino’s mother, Chiara aka Chiarì.
Bolgheri Rosso Azara 2023
Score: 92/100
Average price: € 38
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot. Approximately 12 months in barrique
Intense ruby. Expressive nose of ripe red fruit and sweet spices. Balanced, well-constructed mouthfeel, with hints of cherry, blackberry and polished tannins. Harmonious and persistent finish.
Dedicated to Grandma Zara.
Toscanay Cimino 2022
Score: 93/100
Average price: € 20
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Part in barrique and part in steel for about 10 months.
Compact ruby. Good olfactory spectrum: ripe fruit, notes of vanilla and sweet almond. The sip is taut from its entry, saline and dense but dynamic, with a slight tannic grippe. Good finish, juicy and well contrasted.
Dedicated by his daughters to their father Pino, Cimino was the nickname by which he was called as a child.
Toscana Son I 2022
Score: 96/100
Average price: € 52
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot. 18 months in barrique
Deep ruby. Elegant aromas of ripe black fruit, sweet tobacco and puffs of well-dosed wood, light balsamic and iodine notes. Mouth dense, fleshy and soft, progression is harmonious, elegant and energetic, with long, complex finish.
Toscana Tamara 2022
Score: 95/100
Average price: € 95
100% Cabernet Franc. 18 months in barrique
Thick, bright ruby. Alluring nose of ripe fruit, bell bell pepper, juniper and bay leaf, with echoes of candied bergamot and dried flowers. Mouth deep and compact, dense with excellent extraction. Lengthens and shows off an array of perfectly ripened fruit and balance of contrasting silky tannins that make it enjoyable and elegant.
Ah, I forgot: the name Tripolaia is derived from Tribulus terrestris (the tribulus), a creeping plant that produces sharp, prickly seeds, widespread in the area and also used in phytotherapy. Hence the popular Tuscan saying “It’s all a tribble,” to indicate a tangle that is difficult to manage.
But since everything in Bolgheri ends in -aia…
