The new vintages of Santa Sofia

Luciano Begnoni, patron of Santa Sofia, gathered us around a table. Not just any table, but the one at the Amistà restaurant at the Byblos Art Hotel. He would soon be in his 60s, and before long his father would be 90. The new vintages of Valpolicella Classico Superiore Montegradella and Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Gioè were ready to be tasted.

Fascinated by such beauty, we performed.

What’s new in the Santa Sofia household

Before recounting wines and tastings, it is worth opening the chapter Saint Sophia. Company that is divided between five different territories and five denominations between Verona and Lake Garda, all historical all important. This business complexity led Luciano a few years ago to dedicate himself to realizing his dream, shared until his last day with his sister Patrizia, of seeing all facets of St. Sophia under one roof.

The new cellar is in fact under construction, in the heart of Valpolicella Classica in Pedemonte, will be a functional and modern operations center, whose surface area will correspond to one hectare, on three levels. Suitable for hosting wines from a reality that looks ahead and is not afraid of challenges, whether national or international.

Historic, authentic and unique

In a word, iconic. This is really the case whether we are talking about the Gioè than of Montegradella. Let’s just start with him.

Montegradella is one of the (few) place names found in Valpolicella, in the center of the classic area is practically planted with vines for its entirety. Vineyards that seem to have been there forever are planted with pergola vines on terraces with dry stone walls that are as typical as they are necessary.
A fortunate place where not only the grapes of the Valpolicella Classico Superiore that claims the name, but also those of Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Gioè come from.
Tension, depth and longevity are the main characteristics that this place imparts to its grapes and wines. This is evidenced by the 1985 vintage uncorked at the above-mentioned lunch. Still vibrant, communicative and highly enjoyable.

The new vintages

The year 2026 promises to be exciting when we consider that the following will be released, respectively the 2022 for the Superior, which in itself is not a great vintage. Yet Montegradella is really very good.
For Amarone, on the other hand, the 2016, one of the most harmonious (along with 2021) and relaxed vintages in recent years. And if you think that talking about relaxation is out of place when talking about wine, know that it is not. Especially if that wine is Amarone, by definition made from grapes stressed by raisining and yeasts that get stressed just at the thought of working in such concentrated musts.

Valpolicella Classico Superiore Montegradella tells the story all the typicality of Valpolicella, with notes of cherry and black cherry. A red fruit that begins to blend with the toasty notes of spice and wood. Gioè, the Amarone, on the other hand, tells us the value of method and that of time. Nine years and many nuances, from sweeter to mentholated. Passing through citrusy tensions and a consistent, surprisingly easy mid-palate drinking. Because yes, Amarone is drinkable and a good Amarone is not heavy at all.

To close the circle there is still something missing… the Valpolicella Classico obviously. Vintage wine, the 2024, with a change of look underway that will be unveiled at the very beginning of the year. I have heard over the years calling entry wines many things.
Business card, handshake–as far as I’m concerned, it’s all too business oriented For a wine instead that tastes like home. That follows “the fashions” of the moment without, however, betraying itself. Because if less is more this wine has found a balance also in taking away. Excellent drinking and a real pro stage presence.

Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Gioè 2016

Score: 96/100
Average price in wine shop: € 80,00

Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella dried. 42 months in Slavonian oak barrels and 500-liter tonneaux of medium-toasted French oak; 4 years in bottle. Bright ruby with garnet rim. Nose with notes of sweetness, plum and black cherry. This is followed by mint and darker, deeper notes of candied orange. The palate is calibrated, with excellent persistence. Its acidity remains mid-palate, ensuring drinkability and persistence. On the finish blackberry, raspberry and a good dose of savoriness.

Valpolicella Classico Superiore Montegradella 2022

Score: 93/100
Average price in wine shop: € 20,00

Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella. 18 months in oak barrels, at least 6 months in bottle. Ruby with dark highlights. On the nose jasmine and cherry, roasted dark spices. The palate enters very elegant with hints of cinnamon and a beautiful, never intrusive persistence. Among the best expressions of Montegradella.