Italy exports more than 8 billion euros worth of wine, but in restaurant wine lists between 70% and 75% of the labels are from the same region as the restaurant. A system that tells the value of the territory, but also the structural limits of wine distribution in the HoReCa channel. Stefania Vinciguerra tells us about it.
Italian wine is one of the strongest symbols of the country’s agrifood success. Exports exceed 8 billion euros a year, confirming Italy as one of the leading players in the world market. Yet when you enter an Italian restaurant, the perspective changes dramatically. According to an analysis by Trinko In the HoReCa market, between 70 percent and 75 percent of the labels on the wine lists come from the same region as the venue.
It is a figure that tells a paradox: Italian wine is global in production and export, but remains strongly local in catering.
The territory between identity and barrier
The decision to favor regional wines has cultural motivations obvious. Italian cuisine stems from the relationship with the territory, and many restaurateurs seek consistency between local dishes and wines. In addition, the direct relationship with nearby wineries simplifies logistics and business relationships.
But when territory becomes almost the only selection criterion, the system risks turning a identity value into a barrier. For many wineries-especially small and medium-sized ones-entering wine lists outside their area remains complex.
The weight of catering in the wine market
Catering, after all, is far from marginal to the industry. The HoReCa channel accounts for about the 55-60% of the market value domestic wine, albeit with lower volumes than large-scale distribution.
At the same time, the system is extremely fragmented: there are hundreds of thousands of businesses in Italy, including restaurants, bars and accommodations, and only a fraction have a truly structured wine list.
This makes access to catering complex for many wineries and often tied more to the distribution and relationships than simply the quality of the wine.
Less quantity, more quality
Consumers are also contributing to the changing scenario.
According to the cited analysis, 19% of Italians have reduced the frequency of going out, but when they go to a restaurant, they are looking for more quality. Not surprisingly. 66 percent prefer to order a fine wine glass rather than a cheap bottle, a sign of increasing attention to wine selection.
A trend that is prompting many restaurateurs to revise their cards, investing more in serving by the glass and curating the proposal.
The open question
The question, after all, is simple: does the Italian restaurant industry want to be a showcase for Italian wine or especially for the wine of its own territory?
So far the second way has prevailed. And perhaps this is where the real paradox of Italian wine: a system capable of conquering the world, but still struggling to tell its own story entirely at home.
