Eating and Sleeping in the VineyardsGourmet

Travel in Maremma with Rocca di Montemassi

Rocca di Montemassi Zonin

The Maremma you now … expect. Chronicle of a stay among jealously guarded flavors and culinary traditions, sublime wines and a resort that alone justifies a dream getaway to Tuscany. Fabio Cartei has been there for us.

Maremma: historically no man’s land, an impassable place on the edge of livability stretching from Cecina to Corneto, inhabited by wild beasts and people of dubious morality that could be placed between Purgatory and Hell, in the words of the Supreme Poet.

Rocca di Montemassi, the Maremma cows
Rocca di Montemassi, the Maremma cows

The present, on the other hand, is there for all to see: an area that has become increasingly dynamic, rich and coveted in all respects, from the coast to the inland hills, shining beaches dreamy accommodations, cutting-edge food and wine and pampering, lots of pampering.

Our journey begins with a visit to Fortress of Montemassi, a winefarm located in Alta Maremma abutting the Metalliferous Hills, in a happy location for soils and microclimate and winking at the sea.

The estate of Rocca di Montemassi

The estate, owned by the Zonin family, laid the foundation stone in 1999, today has an area of 420 hectares of which 105 are planted with vines. The rest are olive groves, crops of various types of cereals (mostly), a herd of Maremma cows as well as facilities for hospitality.

Rocca di Montemassi winery

The management of the estate has favored a relationship strictly consistent with the tradition of the area: interventions respectful of the surrounding environments for the construction of the farm buildings especially from a stylistic point of view, for the choice of the varieties of essences planted and for the tall trees that have been perfectly integrated landscape and botanically. The vineyards of an average age of around 20 years, predominantly favor the two grape varieties that are the identity of these areas: the Sangiovese and the Vermentino. Surprising results, however, are also achieved by the other so-called international varieties that make up the various blends.

Rocca di Montemassi is a reality that over the years has embarked on a path of environmental responsibility: in 2018 it obtained the certification Equalitas, in parallel, starting in 2016, began the process of organic conversion of its agricultural activities, completed in 2021, with the certification of the first Organic wines. Wines that accompanied us during brunch in the garden.

The wines tasted

These were the wines, certified organic since vintage 2021, that accompanied us during brunch, paired with typical local dishes, and at the elegant dinner afterwards at DamaDama restaurant.

  • Calasole 2024, Vermentino with white-fleshed fruit, herbs, medlar, citrus on the nose and fresh, savory, marine mouthfeel. Juicy and captivating finish. (€ 13)
  • Syrosa 2024, Syrah with an old pink color, sweet strawberry and raspberry on the nose. Mouth docile and fruity. Closing fresh, pleasant and harmonious. (€ 13)
  • Viognier 2022, a monovarietal fermenting in tonneau, convincing on the nose with ripe yellow fruit, fresh herbs and acacia flowers. In the mouth it is intense and enveloping, beautifully crafted with a light touch of wood that lends vanity and elegance. Saline and with well-disposed acidity, “thick” finish. (€ 25)
  • Poggio alle Fate 2022 Albola Castle, 100% Chardonnay and tonneau. Ample yellow flowers, white pepper and nectarine. Full and structured, solid sip with savory sensations and hints of oak. The finish is endowed with length and pleasantness. (€ 30)

The reds and Vin Santo of Chianti Classico.

  • Le Focaie 2021, a 90% Sangiovese red, with aromas of ripe fruit, spice, blood orange. The drink is rhythmic and dynamic, black pepper, black cherries. The finish is pleasant and darting. (€ 13)
  • Sassabruna 2022, blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot. Intense nose of ripe fruit and puffs of oak, spices. The mouth is concrete, good extraction and contrast. The finish is firm and pleasant with elegant tannins. (€ 18)
  • Roca di Montemassi 2019, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Petit Verdot and 25% Syrah. Deep ruby, bursting nose of ripe black fruit, well-dosed wood, sweet tobacco, spice and coffee. The entry is solid, well-crafted. Soft, dense with hints of blackberry and cassis. The finish is long, even in the aftertaste, with well-integrated silky tannins. (€ 35)
  • Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 2011 Castello di Albola, classic blend of Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia Toscana that rests for a full 8 years in oak kegs. Golden amber, intense with wilted fruit, cotton candy, honey and dried fruit. The mouth is loaded, dense and concentrated with sweet sensations well supported by acidity. Complex and pleasantly long finish. (€ 38 the 0.500 bottle)

Following this, we visit the barrique barn and the Maremma breeding farm, where the bull Fiume, guarding his cows, watches us boldly and proudly from behind the fences.

The exclusivity of the Argentario Wellness Resort in Porto S. Stefano

Argentario resortOur journey continues in a southerly direction, destination: theArgentario Wellness Resort a Porto S. Stefano, an unspoiled paradise perfect for spending a dream vacation, relaxing sports and good food, in the company of family and friends.

The property is a 5-star resort that opened its doors in 2001 at the behest of the Orsini family from Rome, we are welcomed by the owner who with great detail tells us about the history and philosophy that revolves around their vision of wellness of relaxation and respect for nature.

The facility covers 77 hectares located in a valley in the northwest area of Mount Argentario from which you can admire the Giannella beach, the Orbetello lagoon and the Tyrrhenian Sea in one of the most exclusive views of the Tuscan coast. It is surrounded by forests of oaks, holm oaks and centuries-old olive trees and typical Mediterranean shrubs, a natural refuge for many birds and 4-legged animals. An 18-hole golf course, tennis and padel courts, biking and jogging trails, swimming pools, a well-equipped beach and solarium are part of the amenities you can enjoy during your stay whether in rooms, suites or villas. The journey continues inside the SPA that pampers you 360 degrees according to your needs and requests.

DamaDama restaurant, traditions and flavors

Our journey ends at one of the resort’s restaurants: the DamaDama, freshly restyled, where Emiliano Lombardelli and his staff delight us with a menu made up of tradition, compelling and well-balanced flavors. Selected raw materials and expert hands complement each other to perfection resulting in a sensory experience of the highest quality:

  • Pink shrimp subtlety, Evo oil ice cream and herring caviar, paired with.: Maremma Toscana Vermentino Calasole 2024
  • Mullet and eggplant in Livornese sauce, paired with: Maremma Toscana Rosato Syrosa 2024
  • Spaghetti with Orbetello roe and burnt lemon, paired with.: Maremma Toscana Viognier 2022
  • Buttons filled with cacciucco inside and out, paired with.: Maremma Toscana Le Focaie 2021
  • Turbot and red shrimp, lemon potato mousse, spinach and truffleo, paired with.: Tuscany Chardonnay Poggio alle fate 2022 Castello di Albola
  • Tuscan three-chocolate Sfumature in mango sauce, paired with.: Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 2011 Castello di Albola

Our expedition ends here, we are about to go through the exit gate, an experience made of colors, flavors and strong emotions comes to a close. Ready to “touch” new experiences, in Maremma and beyond.

HOSPITALITY

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