About Cabernet Franc and Ampeleia being a winning combination, there is now no shadow of doubt. This is also thanks to a cohesive, close-knit and competent staff, aided by oenologist and director Marco Tait, from Trentino and Maremma by adoption, who makes us discover all the charm of this “combine.” Fabio Cartei tells us about it.
More than 20 years and as many vintages have now passed since the desire of some entrepreneurs (Elisabetta Foradori, Giovanni Podini e Thomas Widmann) takes shape. After careful and meticulous research throughout Italy, an area deemed to have a vocation and important potential was identified, located in the metalliferous hills of the Alta Maremma, specifically in Roccatederighi in the province of Grosseto, in an exclusive setting far removed from the more emblazoned “wine” clamors of the surrounding area. Ampeleia was born like this.
Thus takes shape, in fact, a winemaking reality, now solely run by the Podini family, which aims at a so-called “gentle viticulture” by style and philosophy (certified organic since 2012 and certified biodynamic since 2014) and that prefers to respect the natural rhythms of certain disciplines and dynamics: Ampeleia. This was followed by years fueled by the development and consolidation of the original project, made up of experimentation and insights, trials and choices: for the management of the land in order to make it healthy and fertile, for the design and breeding of the plants, and for the study of the climate.
Deep Mediterranean character
Minimal interventions are carried out in the winery, spontaneous fermentations are preferred and without temperature control, stationing in concrete vessels for both fermentation and aging; the wines obtained denote a deep Mediterranean character and are totally adherent to the production philosophy. It starts with an initial planting of 6 hectares of vineyard inherited from the old estate, to today’s 35. Sangiovese, Merlot, Carignano, Black Alicante and Bouschet as well as Ansonica Malvasia and Trebbiano make up the mosaic and determine the fabric of Ampeleia.
But the winery’s main grape variety is and remains the Cabernet Franc, 8 hectares divided into 7 plots that find their “ideal cradle” at La Rocca, in vineyards located between 500 and 600 meters above sea level. Here, the microclimate, made cooler also and above all by the presence of woods surrounding the vineyards, and the strong thermal fluctuations between day and night, combined with the composition of the soils rich in marl, palomino and clay, favor the obtaining of a wine of great value, fresh and elegant, capable of embodying the territory: pride and joy of the winery, and named after the winery itself: Ampeleia. From selected grapes, it is vinified purely (since 2015) and with 10% whole cluster in fermentation, followed by an 18-month aging in cement tanks and one year in bottle.
The tank samples
We tasted the samples, all from tanks, from the 7 plots, of which I am only reporting the tasting notes:
- Parcel Donkey 2024: Ruby with violet hues. Nose is fresh, expressive of red fruits and spices. Docile, juicy entry, slight lactic note. Good matter, evident tannins.
- Parcel Meleta di sotto ovest 2024: Ruby-purple. Green and balsamic notes on the nose over all. Pleasant, fruity, lively entry. Proceeds dynamically and expands well contrasted by tanninj
- 16 rows 2024: Intense Ruby. Complex and appealing olfaction, laurel, myrtle, cinchona, red fruit overflow. In the mouth it is dense and concentrated, blood and graphite notes, the tannins are docile and silky and the structure accompanies in a long and pleasant finish.
- Parcel Meleta di sotto est 2024: Deep ruby. Pleasant impact on the nose, with clear hints of tobacco and resins. Good matter in the middle, still red fruit and candied citrus, slight bitter note.
- Parcel Brooms 2024: Deep ruby. The nose is pleasant, rich with black fruits and balsamic echoes. Well-calibrated entry and center of mouth: sweet almond, blueberry and tobacco over all. Well-arranged and long finish.
- Parcel 30 file 2024: Deep ruby to the eye. Floral and pungent nose of green bell pepper, tobacco and balsamic puffs. Sweet entry of perfectly ripe fruit, well contrasted in the middle with noticeable but well-integrated tannins. The finish is a crescendo: soft and long even in the aftertaste.
- Brunero Parcel 2024: Dark, dense ruby. Nose of ripe red and black fruits. Clean and powerful entry and good matter in the center of the mouth, solid, almost austere. Good long, vibrant finish with well-dosed tannins.
The two new Cabernet Franc cru
The company then presented the two new Cabernet Franc crus, scheduled release September 2025, two new labels in limited edition (1,300 bottles total), the result of a very careful selection and born from a careful analysis and reading of the wines obtained from the separate vinifications of two specific plots. Also comforted by the geological study of soils and the microclimate of certain rows. Two similar but different labels: one more subtle and elegant (16 rows) the other more textural and solid on the palate (30 rows).
A new chapter opens at the winery, four labels will be dedicated to pure Cabernet Franc, which in fact is confirmed as the winery’s “identifying varietal.” A varietal Cabernet Franc, from the youngest plants; the Cabernet Franc bearing the winery’s name, from the oldest plants, produced now for 21 years; and finally the two new cru: 16 File and 30 File.
Gentle and conscious viticulture that leaves its mark.
Toscana Cabernet Franc 16 File 2020
Score: 93/100
Approximate price in wine shop: € 80
100% Cabernet Franc. 10 months in cement. Deep ruby with eggplant-colored reflections. Complex and elegant nose: hints of bay leaf and myrtle but also notes of blood and sweet fruit. Firm and well-crafted entry, good concentration accompanied by fine tannin texture. The finish is savory and “gets you.”
Toscana Cabernet Franc 30 File 2020
Score: 94/100
Approximate price in wine shop: € 80
100% Cabernet Franc. 10 months in cement. Convincing chromaticity. Olfaction intense, fine and elegant. Sweet fruit, graphite and balsamic and maquis tones. Center of mouth is rich, solid and well-calibrated, almost velvety, tasty, spicy. Long and persuasive finish. Pure elegance.
Toscana Cabernet Franc Ampeleia 2021
Score: 94/100
Approximate price in wine shop: € 45
100% Cabernet Franc. 18 months in cement. Dark ruby. Overflowing red fruit, mint and rosemary, balsamic. Good mouth entry matter that expands well blended in the center of the mouth. Proceeds elegantly and rhythmically into a crescendo finish.
Toscana Cabernet Franc Ampeleia 2020
Score: 92/100
Approximate price in wine shop: € 45
100% Cabernet Franc. 18 months in cement. Deep ruby. Pungent nose of herbs and spices, tobacco and notes of underbrush and wet earth. Mouthfeel of perfectly ripe red and black fruits. Balsamic notes of Mediterranean brush and licorice. Dynamic elegant with lively tannins. Charm.
Costa Toscana Cabernet Franc Ampeleia 2016
Score: 92/100
Approximate price in wine shop: € 45
100% Cabernet Franc. 18 months in cement. Dark ruby red. Complex nose of fresh herbs and green bell pepper. Myrtle, currant, balsamic and powdery powder. Powerful and soft entry, well balanced in its components. Elegant with silky tannins, closes long and creamy.
Toscana Cabernet Franc 2023
Score: 89/100
Approximate price in wine shop: € 30
100% Cabernet Franc. 10 months in concrete tanks. Ruby with violet reflections. Fresh elegant, citrusy bouquet. Direct and almost scratchy on the palate, with an array of red fruits and spices. Winking and vital, it closes with a still perceptible balance of tannins. Remarkable drinkability.
