Now in its 15th vintage, Baffonero, Rocca di Frassinello’s Maremma Merlot, shows an energy and power that well reflects a certain style of international Merlots.
Rocca di Frassinello is an interesting reality of contemporary Tuscan winemaking. Located in Gavorrano, in the heart of Maremma, it was born from the vision of Paolo Panerai, a wine producer with Castellare di Castellina, journalist, publisher and founder of the Class Group, together with Domaines Baron de Rothschild-Lafite in a joint venture that brought international expertise to the Tuscan terroir. The winery, designed by architect Renzo Piano, has become a design icon.
The wine: Baffonero
Baffonero is the winery’s flagship wine, whose very name recalls the nickname of a “legendary” local farmer, the former owner of the vineyard from which it is derived. It is meant to emphasize the wine’s strong connection with the territory, despite the use of a non-native grape variety.
It is in fact made from pure Merlot and comes from a dedicated vineyard located at the foot of the winery, on predominantly clay soils that are ideal for this variety. The vineyard is on a naturally ventilated slope, where exposure and climate work together to slow ripening and preserve freshness. Constant wind mitigates summer temperatures, while temperature swings refine the grapes’ aromatic profile. Clay soils with the presence of shale limit plant vigor, favoring small, concentrated clusters. Strict pruning and thinning are adopted to maximize concentration and quality, and yields are very low, around 35 quintals per hectare. Fermentation and maceration take place in cement, followed by about 24 months of maturation in new barriques and a further period of bottle aging.
Since its first vintage, 2007, the wine’s style has traced the one brought to the fore by California producers, powerful, warm, opulent, which very much corresponds to the lands of Maremma. Vineyard growth and a greater awareness of the climatic dynamics of the place have increased the finesse of the wine.
The year 2022
The year 2022 was a climatically extreme year in Tuscany, with average temperatures well above historical norms and severe heat stress especially from May to July, when the heat remained consistently well above seasonal averages. Starting in mid-August, well-distributed rainfall and cooler temperature ranges between day and night helped the accumulation of polyphenols and aromas in the grapes, supporting the balance between technological and phenolic ripening. This favored rich aromatic development while maintaining low yields.
Baffonero ‘s 2022 vintage has a distinct identity: Mediterranean energy, aromatic depth and a tannic structure that supports evolution in the bottle.
The wine pairs particularly well with structured dishes such as stewed red meats, game and aged cheeses because of its rich flavor and lingering finish.
Maremma Toscana Merlot Baffonero 2022 Rocca di Frassinello
Score: 96/100
Average price in wine shop: € 220
100% Merlot. New casks for 24 months. Ruby red of excellent intensity. Notes of black fruits prevail on the nose, blackberry and blueberry in particular, then raspberry jam, the spicy nuances of vanilla and blond tobacco, hints of chocolate. Warm and powerful the sip, with a soft envelopment that caresses the mouth. Volume and persistence characterize the closure.
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