Precisely on the Neapolitan volcano, the sparkling wine phenomenon has exploded for several years now, touching diverse areas and grape varieties, both white and red. The grape varieties used for Vesuvius sparkling wines are the native ones, typical of Lacryma Christi. Antonella Amodio tells us about them.
A few years ago it seemed unthinkable to produce sparkling wines other than Trentodoc, Franciacorta, Oltrepò Pavese, Alta Langa, and Prosecco, and only with certain grapes (Pinot noir, Pinot blanc, Pinot meunier, Chardonnay, Glera) and in very specific territories, all in northern Italy. Things changed when people began to experiment and to put a different face on grape varieties that were traditionally offered still.
All regions now have their own classic methods, Charmat/Martinotti, ancestral, from indigenous grapes, and wineries have also sprung up that devote themselves exclusively to sparkling wines, as in Sicily, on Etna, or in Campania, in Irpinia. But of examples around the Peninsula there are several.
In Campania the sparkling wine phenomenon has been exploding for several years now, touching diverse areas and grape varieties, both white and red, although history teaches that this type was present many, many years ago. L’ Asprinio d’Aversa Sparkling Wine is among the oldest in our country, referring to King Robert of Anjou, who commissioned the Royal House cellarer, Louis Pierrefeu, to produce a sparkling wine for the Angevin Court that was similar to the French one, at the turn of the 13th and 14th centuries. In Irpinia, in Cantine Di Marzo, in Tufo, in the 1920s the first Spumante Metodo Classico made from Campania’s Greco grapes was produced, which, thanks to the wine’s railroad, was sold outside the region.
At the time of Vesuvius
On the slopes of Vesuvius, several producers have turned to the production of sparkling wines. The poignant territory is the protagonist of the legend of Lucifer who, driven out of Paradise, took with him a small portion of it, which he laid on the Neapolitan volcano before sinking into Hell. Jesus, heartbroken and displeased by such an action and at the same time moved by so much beauty of which he had been deprived, shed a few tears that settled on that small portion of the world, giving rise to all the grape varieties that are grown to produce Lacryma Christi wine..
And it is precisely with the grapes destined for this appellation that sparkling wines are produced: from the Piedirosso, to Caprettone, to the Catalanesca. The two slopes of Mount Vesuvius, the one to the south overlooking the sea in the Gulf of Naples, and the one to the north of Mount Somma, originating from two geological fulcrums, are carpeted with vines ranging from 300 to 700 meters above sea level, sinking their roots into potassium-rich volcanic sand and lapilli. It is easy to come across century-old vineyards and in regrets by the ancient method of offshooting, that is, by burying the shoot to give way for another plant to sprout. An area, the Vesuvian area, marked by a enormous ampelographic wealth and among the most cultivated grape varieties are Coda di Volpe, Falanghina and Aglianico.
A recent history
Sparkling wine on Vesuvius has a recent history, first with Charmat method productions and then with the classic method, achieving extraordinary results in both cases. Casa Setaro was the first to produce the metodo classico from Caprettone grapes, targeting this identity and local grape variety, confused in the past with Coda di Volpe. It pioneered other bubbles made from Vesuvian biotope grapes, such as Catalanesca, paving the way for many wineries.
Today we have a fine representation that becomes an articulate and original kaleidoscope of Vesuvius, making so-called minor vines, blended or pure, dialogue with Charmat and classic methods, giving sips full of surprise.
TO READ THE WINE DESCRIPTIONS, WITH SCORE AND AVERAGE SHELF PRICE, CLICK ON THE TABS BELOW.
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