Astro of Masari, a new star is born

This is not the first time I have written about the Masari company. I discovered it in Milan, at one of their distributor’s tasting events. What attracted my attention were the black labels with white writing, but especially the fact that this company was among the companies from Veneto and I…did not know it! Amazement and disbelief when I found out that it was located in Val D’Agno. What do you mean Val d’Agno? I asked three times, and three times with his trademark calmness Massimo Dal Lago replied, “Val d’Agno, in the province of Vicenza.”

The Agno Valley

First of all, the Agno is a river; it is obvious what rivers in Veneto like to do if you look at a geological map. Basically they like to run from north to south, with a few detours here and there to make their lives less boring, carving out valleys decreeing their vocation for viticulture. Slopes, gradients, altitudes, cold winds funneling and running to the warm plains to the south resulting in temperature swings, water available and different exposure possibilities.

This is what it means to do viticulture in a valley. The Agno Valley also has one characteristic above all, that of being east of the river characterized by limestone soils, and west of it by soils of volcanic origin. Both red and white grape varieties find a home here. The history of the area has meant that Rhine Riesling is grown here alongside Durella. For more than 200 years red grape varieties of Bordeaux origin have found a permanent home here, becoming decidedly more at home.

Masari: sustainable vineyard, winery and hospitality

Mas stands for Massimo, and Ari is arianna. Husband and wife in synergy lead 10 hectares of vineyard, pieces of a puzzle scattered among the woods, and a nothing short of charming B&B active since 2025 with four rooms in the old farmhouse expertly renovated to retain all its authenticity without missing modern comforts. Masari at the red house is a totally self-sufficient building, thanks to photovoltaics for electricity, solar thermal for hot water and wood stoves for heating. The red house, overlooking the valley and vineyards is surrounded by forests. Not only a source of wood for heating but also an identifying trait of this area in some respects so unspoiled due to the abandonment of agricultural practices by the local population, which since the mid-19th century has come down to the valley and dedicated itself to the textile industry thanks to the power created in this regard by the Marzotto family.

The stubbornness of Maximus and Ariadne, and the birth of a new star

Arianna is the typical Venetian woman, never still and tireless worker. Massimo is a concrete dreamer; he is the winemaker in the family, although the oldest origins in winemaking are Ari’s. Prescribing careful management in the vineyard, skimping on labor and intervention, is out of the question, especially today.

And so with the 2021 vintage, a new wine comes out for the first time in history. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, only 1,000 bottles, daughters of a wine project before that of the winery. La quality challenge, as Massimo called it, that is an attempt to show that the Agno Valley has an identity and that that identity is strong and competitive. Less than one hectare of Cabernet Sauvignon managed from flowering with defoliation interventions to expose the bunches to the sun early on. The goal? To thicken the skin, increase resistance and make the clusters more sparse.

The consequence is a natural concentration, at the expense of the quantity of must, already in the vineyard with thick skins rich in color and aroma, little juice and perfect grape health. For it is perfection that is sought in Astro, nothing less. The label of this wine, in super preview and with an exclusive cost, takes up the ancient coat of arms of the Dal Lago family where in a small lake a timid sailboat sails under a star as if to show the way and reassure it in the darkness.

The Super Veneti

Astro di Masari is a virtuous example of what can be done in an area that even neighbors (me, for example) do not know they have. An excellent wine, child of a project consistent with its origin, which aims not only at quality but exclusivity. Not just a Veneto wine but a Super Veneto. Worthy exemplar of an upcoming project that will involve other wineries and their bordelaise blended wines present in the territory between the provinces of Vicenza, Padua and Treviso. Territories where hillside viticulture is at home as well as Cabernet and Merlot have been for more than 200 years. Super Veneti that make people talk about Veneto. Red Abbey by Serafini and Vidotto, Oratory San Lorenzo by Inama, Fratta by Maculan, Head of State by Loredana Gasparini to name a few. Did any light bulbs go on for you? These are not simply red wines from Veneto, they are the super Veneto! Pay attention to them.

Veneto Rosso Astro 2021 Masari

Score: 97/100

Average price in wine shop: € 300.00

100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Matures in new barrel. Pigeon blood red. The nose denotes great depth with notes of mint and bay leaf but also chocolate, carob, elegant and fine roasting that gives way to blood orange. The palate is powerful and structured, releasing citrusy and voluminous sensations at length. Thick and ripe tannin, balanced with its natural softness.